The Beginners Guide To Mapping Out A Cash Game Chip Set - 5c/10c to $5/$10 (7 Viewers)

Limit poker is the answer. Super simple chip structure, reduced financial downside, more fun upside.
As a huge limit fan, I wish I could agree, but my home game experience with microstakes limit hasn’t been that great. My small crew just couldn’t get invested the couple of times we tried it at $0.50/$1.

I think if you want to play limit, you have to increase the buy-in size a bit, maybe like a $50 buy in at $1/$2 and just use all quarters. And maybe include a kill to keep it interesting.

People want to feel pain and joy, hard to accomplish playing super small limit unless you have a group of enthusiasts (I wish !)
 
As a huge limit fan, I wish I could agree, but my home game experience with microstakes limit hasn’t been that great. My small crew just couldn’t get invested the couple of times we tried it at $0.50/$1.

I think if you want to play limit, you have to increase the buy-in size a bit, maybe like a $50 buy in at $1/$2 and just use all quarters. And maybe include a kill to keep it interesting.

People want to feel pain and joy, hard to accomplish playing super small limit unless you have a group of enthusiasts (I wish !)
Poker is a social catalyst for my gang. A lot of family pots and good times. I do $50 at $1/$2 with a rack of 50¢ chips.
 
Poker is a social catalyst for my gang. A lot of family pots and good times. I do $50 at $1/$2 with a rack of 50¢ chips.
Yes, that sounds lovely. I think $50 is the right number, and probably feels close in risk factor for broke college kids as $25 does playing NL.
 
Using 5c chips is fine in .05/.10 games, but I recommend playing .25/.25 instead of .10/.25.
Since the 5c are only on the table for the small blind, it gets more cumbersome…and .25/.25 plays almost identically to .10/.25.
This is completely accurate but I have the Apache Pharaoh clones and even though I've gotten my starting stacks down to just 5 nickels each to reduce the number on the table, I have a lot of cat owners in my game and for some reason nobody wants the cat chip to be benched. I've pitched .25/.25 a few times and nobody likes the idea for some reason.

I even ended up with them through reading this forum as I forget who they were that pushed to get them, one I distinctly remember said "get the nickel, always get the nickel" so I did and apparently they're here to stay. lol
 
I think if you want to play limit, you have to increase the buy-in size a bit, maybe like a $50 buy in at $1/$2 and just use all quarters. And maybe include a kill to keep it interesting.
I’m trying to figure out how a starting stack in limit makes any difference. If you can only bet a certain amount in any hand…and can add chips between hands…how does adding a higher buyin matter?
 
I’m trying to figure out how a starting stack in limit makes any difference. If you can only bet a certain amount in any hand…and can add chips between hands…how does adding a higher buyin matter?
Well I’m mainly just referring to the stakes themselves and what I consider a typical buy-in amount for that stake. So I guess I should just say “$1/$2 is as low as I think I could go to hold my friends interest.”
 
When you say "buying them as a set," do you mean that there's a fixed price for 500 chips and you get to pick the denominations?

If so, then I agree with @Colquhoun that you could play .25/.25. And with the smallest buyin of $30 you wouldn't need 5c chips at all. That gives you another 100 chips to distribute amongst your higher denoms. If you really need/want the nickels for smaller games then here's what I think:

For a $20-$50 buyin you can have stacks of 10/10/12/x.
For $100 you can go with -/12/12/7/2.

With these you can have up to 10 full stacks and you will only need 120 of the $1 chips. That gives you 30 chips to use elsewhere. Given your current bank only supports 10 buyins at $100 I would suggest adding 20x$5 and 10x$25. This raises your bank to $1400+.

So your breakdown would be:

100x $0.05
150x $0.25
120x $1
120× $5
30× $25
Following your suggestion, I could instead reduce the number of quarters and let the main blinds (.25 or .50) run more smoothly with 1s.
Breakdown:
  • 100x $0.05
  • 125x $0.25
  • 150x $1
  • 100× $5
  • 25× $25
This allows for the following stacks:
  • $0.05/$0.10: 10/14/x (quarter adjustable to 10 for higher player count)
  • $0.25/$0.25: -/12/17/x (ones adjustable to 12 for higher player count)
  • $0.25/$0.50: -/12/17/11/x (ones adjustable to 12 for higher player count)
 
A few thoughts.
  • You've mentioned the 500 chip limit and a specific case a couple of times. Does this mean you are providing the chips, but you are not hosting? You need the chips to be able to travel? If so, be careful as many of the standard 500 chip cases are cheaply made and the latches can pop open, leaving you with a big mess. It seems rather silly to design an entire set around a specific travel case, especially when other larger (and much better) cases are available.
  • Even if you must travel with only 500 chips, you can still purchase more (600?) to cover the variety of games you want to spread. For example, just leave the 100 nickel chips at home for the games that play higher, and leave the highest values home for the nickel games. You will almost never need larger than a $5 chip for 0.05/0.10 games.
  • I mentioned this earlier - this is a chipper site more than a poker player site. Which chips are you looking at? I say this because some of the "economy" chips sold by retailers require you to buy in multiples of 25. Since we are mostly chippers, a lot of those are chips "we" would not recommend. This might be a completely different conversation, but we might be able to help you get "better" chips, more of them, and still stay within your budget.
  • Which brings up the next question. What is your budget?
Let us know what you think about these comments.
Thanks for the feedback. Correct, I want to be able to host and also travel with them.

Coming from a 300 metal slugs set, IMO 500 should be enough for what I need.
It will be nice for sure to have more of them but I don't think I will need them at this stage. My goal is really to get the best ratios given the number.

I like your suggestion of swapping out chips before I travel, but I don't think it's worth it at this point (not only the additional chips but also swapping the chips before each travel). This is definitely something I can do later if my games grow and I need more chips.

The chips I have my eyes on are the Majestic china clay chips, and being from Europe it is really about optimizing what I get for the cost.
I've seen a ton of reviews, and I am looking into getting some samples before I commit to them. Although I think this goes out of scope of the thread.
 
Wasn’t able to find it, but has anyone discussed mapping a chip set specifically for a mixed game with draw/stud cash games? Probably somewhere around $8/16 to $10/20 stakes.
 
Wasn’t able to find it, but has anyone discussed mapping a chip set specifically for a mixed game with draw/stud cash games? Probably somewhere around $8/16 to $10/20 stakes.
Fixed limit would just be limit sets, get 1400 $2 chips and a rack of $25s-$100s or something to represent lots of value. If its 10/20, you can do $5s instead, whatever works, but have some smaller chips for antes and bringins.
 
Fixed limit would just be limit sets, get 1400 $2 chips and a rack of $25s-$100s or something to represent lots of value. If its 10/20, you can do $5s instead, whatever works, but have some smaller chips for antes and bringins.
Ok, sounds simple enough. I would probably just use a button ante to further simplify everything. For a $8/16 stud game, the bring in would be $4. $2 chips should be the smallest chips I’d need in this case, right?

I guess I’d need some $1 chips if I included any NL/PL games in the mix though.
 
Wasn’t able to find it, but has anyone discussed mapping a chip set specifically for a mixed game with draw/stud cash games? Probably somewhere around $8/16 to $10/20 stakes.
Someone created a custom limit set with $2 betting chips and $40 value chips, which I think is genius. Unfortunately, I can't remember who it was...
 
That’s pretty brilliant. Nice idea!
I should have known. It was @inca911 He's so smart!

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/do-i-need-a-limit-set.113583/post-2338719

1716333164126.png
 
@Machine I am so lost here, maybe too much reading? But about to embark on a Custom CPC Journey and want to get it right. Also wanting this new set to handle a smaller game (Like $20 Buy in) than our current, but I don't know what that should be? Ie is it .05 / .10 or .10 / .25 (I don't understand how the .10/.25 works to be honest). Not adverse to NCV chips at the Lowest and Highest ends to help this along. So main goal is to cover existing .25 / .50, but wanting to cover below:

Micro - .25/.50 - .50/$1 - $1/$1

We'll find other games, or venues for $1/$2 and even the $1/$1 ends up being a special grouping, like once in past 3 years; so kind of looking for minimum, not optimal.

We normally play .25 / .50 and we actually cap pretty hard at 8 players, the thought of planning on 10 is not lost on me, but again seems like alot of uneccessary spending. Don't want to pay for the exception, and would rather have the investment go into the rule, if that makes sense? Our game doesn't play large, in our initial Rack of $5s I've never broken into the last 2 Barrels. We also currently use a $2 chip, which I know is inefficient, and would maybe like to correct that going forward.

This is our current start for $50 Buy in:

12x .25
12x $1
5x $2
5x $5

Rebuys are handled with:

2x $5
2x $20

Whats the map out for this:

NCV Micro
.25
$1
$5
$20 or is this NCV Macro
 
@Machine I am so lost here, maybe too much reading? But about to embark on a Custom CPC Journey and want to get it right. Also wanting this new set to handle a smaller game (Like $20 Buy in) than our current, but I don't know what that should be? Ie is it .05 / .10 or .10 / .25 (I don't understand how the .10/.25 works to be honest). Not adverse to NCV chips at the Lowest and Highest ends to help this along. So main goal is to cover existing .25 / .50, but wanting to cover below:

Micro - .25/.50 - .50/$1 - $1/$1

We'll find other games, or venues for $1/$2 and even the $1/$1 ends up being a special grouping, like once in past 3 years; so kind of looking for minimum, not optimal.

We normally play .25 / .50 and we actually cap pretty hard at 8 players, the thought of planning on 10 is not lost on me, but again seems like alot of uneccessary spending. Don't want to pay for the exception, and would rather have the investment go into the rule, if that makes sense? Our game doesn't play large, in our initial Rack of $5s I've never broken into the last 2 Barrels. We also currently use a $2 chip, which I know is inefficient, and would maybe like to correct that going forward.

This is our current start for $50 Buy in:

12x .25
12x $1
5x $2
5x $5

Rebuys are handled with:

2x $5
2x $20

Whats the map out for this:

NCV Micro
.25
$1
$5
$20 or is this NCV Macro
If your normal game is 25c/50c and your small game has a 25c BB, I would not waste money (especially custom CPC money) on a nickel or dime chip. Just make your smaller game 25c/25c. Only get nickel chips if you want to have a tiny game of 5c/10c blinds.

Another option is make your small game 10c/20c and your bigger game 50c/50c and make 10c and 50c chips instead of nickels and quarters. I don't personally like this (5c and 25c chips are far more flexible) but it is an option that some people like.

I don't like NCV chips as high value chips. It's a custom, forever set - get the denoms you want, and if you need an extra rack to cover occasional micro stakes, just bite the bullet and get them. I'm somewhat of a progression guy, so I like my smallest denoms to be simple and my high demons to be more complex. Make your nickel chips on a solid or an L1 spotted chip and they won't be that expensive.
 
Could someone sanity check this stack setup for me? Trying to attempt to make an ultra versitile chip set for multiple NLH Cash game stakes with a target stack of 100BB.

200x - $0.05
200x - $0.25
200x - $1
75x - $5
25x - $25
700 Total Chips

If possible to slim down total chips I'm all for it.
Prefer to stick with 25x increments as I believe thats the standard order quantity for China Ceramics.
Lower stakes more common than higher stakes so would like more buys/rebuys for more possible players at lower stakes.

Spreadsheet tells me:

20x $10 - 10/10/2/1/0 for $0.05/$0.10
20x $25 - 10/10/7/3/0 for $0.10/$0.25
16x $50 - 0/12/12/2/1 for $0.25/$0.50
12x $100 - 0/12/17/6/2 for $0.50/$1.00
 
Could someone sanity check this stack setup for me? Trying to attempt to make an ultra versitile chip set for multiple NLH Cash game stakes with a target stack of 100BB.

200x - $0.05
200x - $0.25
200x - $1
75x - $5
25x - $25
700 Total Chips

If possible to slim down total chips I'm all for it.
Prefer to stick with 25x increments as I believe thats the standard order quantity for China Ceramics.
Lower stakes more common than higher stakes so would like more buys/rebuys for more possible players at lower stakes.

Spreadsheet tells me:

20x $10 - 10/10/2/1/0 for $0.05/$0.10
20x $25 - 10/10/7/3/0 for $0.10/$0.25
16x $50 - 0/12/12/2/1 for $0.25/$0.50
12x $100 - 0/12/17/6/2 for $0.50/$1.00
Get rid of a rack of nickels. If you actually want to do $50-100 buyins you'll need that 100 chips in 5s. Chances are by the time your game grows 10x the original buyin you'll get another set anyways, I did the same thing you're doing now and it was silly.
 
Could someone sanity check this stack setup for me? Trying to attempt to make an ultra versitile chip set for multiple NLH Cash game stakes with a target stack of 100BB.

200x - $0.05
200x - $0.25
200x - $1
75x - $5
25x - $25
700 Total Chips

If possible to slim down total chips I'm all for it.
Prefer to stick with 25x increments as I believe thats the standard order quantity for China Ceramics.
Lower stakes more common than higher stakes so would like more buys/rebuys for more possible players at lower stakes.
Do you really need to cover two full tables of 10 players? If so, you need to focus on the most common stakes and forget about having enough chips to cover future, larger games. Or buy another couple of racks of chips. You really can't cover a decent 25c/50c $50 buy-in game with only 75 $5s.
Spreadsheet tells me:

20x $10 - 10/10/2/1/0 for $0.05/$0.10
You don't need $5s in your starting stacks for a $10 buy-in nickel/dime game. Give everyone 7x $1s and use the $5s for rebuys.
20x $25 - 10/10/7/3/0 for $0.10/$0.25
Skip the 10c small blind and just play 25c/25c. Trust me, the game will play much better.
16x $50 - 0/12/12/2/1 for $0.25/$0.50
Kind of like the nickel game. Don't give your players half of their buy-in in one chip. Save the $25s for rebuys and give everyone 5 more $5s. It's unplayable like this. $5 chips are your workhorse in a 25c/50c game. You have to have more of them.
12x $100 - 0/12/17/6/2 for $0.50/$1.00
Same as above. This game is going to totally suck with so few $5s.

Even the bigger games using nickels and quarters, you only need one rack of the smallest chip per table. So you're fine with 200 x 5c and 200 x 25c. To make things easier, just give a full barrel of the lowest denom to the first 5 players, and use higher denoms after that. for example - in your 25c/50c game, the first five guys get:
20 x 25c
20 x $1
5 x $5

Then players 6-10 at each table get an extra $5 in place of no quarters. This does mean you need 200 $1s per table. Not total. You could probably get away with giving only 15 x $1s and having 150 per table, but I would not go any less.

If you really want to cover two table for all these stakes, you need this - minimum:

200x - $0.05
200x - $0.25
300x - $1 (400-500 would be better)
300x - $5 (500-600 would be better for the bigger games)
50x - $25 (100 would be better)

1050 Total Chips - $3110 Bank.

And this is still probably not enough to cover the $100 game with rebuys if you have a night that gets really splashy.

You mentioned china ceramics, so I assume you are considering Tina chips. An extra 400 Tina chips is a little over $200. Don't screw up your game or your option to grow into bigger games by trying to scrimp on the number of chips. You'll just regret it. And getting add-ons later, you always run the risk of the colors not matching up perfectly on the second run. Best to get all the chips you think you will need both now and in the future at the same time.
 
I would cut down nickels to 100. Get at least 2 racks of $5 and consider an extra rack of $1. Forego the $25 and let $20 bills play if needed.
Get rid of a rack of nickels. If you actually want to do $50-100 buyins you'll need that 100 chips in 5s. Chances are by the time your game grows 10x the original buyin you'll get another set anyways, I did the same thing you're doing now and it was silly.
Noted! Letting $20s play is a great idea.

Do you really need to cover two full tables of 10 players? If so, you need to focus on the most common stakes and forget about having enough chips to cover future, larger games. Or buy another couple of racks of chips. You really can't cover a decent 25c/50c $50 buy-in game with only 75 $5s.

You don't need $5s in your starting stacks for a $10 buy-in nickel/dime game. Give everyone 7x $1s and use the $5s for rebuys.

Skip the 10c small blind and just play 25c/25c. Trust me, the game will play much better.

Kind of like the nickel game. Don't give your players half of their buy-in in one chip. Save the $25s for rebuys and give everyone 5 more $5s. It's unplayable like this. $5 chips are your workhorse in a 25c/50c game. You have to have more of them.

Same as above. This game is going to totally suck with so few $5s.

Even the bigger games using nickels and quarters, you only need one rack of the smallest chip per table. So you're fine with 200 x 5c and 200 x 25c. To make things easier, just give a full barrel of the lowest denom to the first 5 players, and use higher denoms after that. for example - in your 25c/50c game, the first five guys get:
20 x 25c
20 x $1
5 x $5

Then players 6-10 at each table get an extra $5 in place of no quarters. This does mean you need 200 $1s per table. Not total. You could probably get away with giving only 15 x $1s and having 150 per table, but I would not go any less.

If you really want to cover two table for all these stakes, you need this - minimum:

200x - $0.05
200x - $0.25
300x - $1 (400-500 would be better)
300x - $5 (500-600 would be better for the bigger games)
50x - $25 (100 would be better)

1050 Total Chips - $3110 Bank.

And this is still probably not enough to cover the $100 game with rebuys if you have a night that gets really splashy.

You mentioned china ceramics, so I assume you are considering Tina chips. An extra 400 Tina chips is a little over $200. Don't screw up your game or your option to grow into bigger games by trying to scrimp on the number of chips. You'll just regret it. And getting add-ons later, you always run the risk of the colors not matching up perfectly on the second run. Best to get all the chips you think you will need both now and in the future at the same time.

I think I misunderstood or misrepresented what I was hoping for. 2 tables hasn't occured but I wanted ~2x buys per person just to be well covered.
We play 6-8 mostly, microstakes, can get up to 10 on a good night, or slim down to 4. We'll never play 10 people in 0.50/1.00 and its rare if we ever play that big hence why big chip delegation got slimmed down.

I have never played 0.25/0.25 but am interested if it does make the game easier and chips easier to delegate. I'm assuming that just means SB BB are both 0.25 and not like an ante game right?

Taking into consideration what everyone said, I see the chip count now being:

200x - $0.25
300x - $1
300x - $5

If they want to play larger stakes as rare as it is then I'll tell them to bring $20s. Additionally I can use some cheap dice chips for nickels and hope we outgrow them or if not, easy enough to add 100-200 $0.05 chips on. This should eliminate adding to existing chips for color consistency and setting up for additional purchases to be for larger chips only.

Thanks for the help!
 
Noted! Letting $20s play is a great idea.



I think I misunderstood or misrepresented what I was hoping for. 2 tables hasn't occured but I wanted ~2x buys per person just to be well covered.
We play 6-8 mostly, microstakes, can get up to 10 on a good night, or slim down to 4. We'll never play 10 people in 0.50/1.00 and its rare if we ever play that big hence why big chip delegation got slimmed down.

I have never played 0.25/0.25 but am interested if it does make the game easier and chips easier to delegate. I'm assuming that just means SB BB are both 0.25 and not like an ante game right?

Taking into consideration what everyone said, I see the chip count now being:

200x - $0.25
300x - $1
300x - $5

If they want to play larger stakes as rare as it is then I'll tell them to bring $20s. Additionally I can use some cheap dice chips for nickels and hope we outgrow them or if not, easy enough to add 100-200 $0.05 chips on. This should eliminate adding to existing chips for color consistency and setting up for additional purchases to be for larger chips only.

Thanks for the help!

Your game sounds similar to mine. One of the guys here made this, check it out.

https://docs.google.com/presentatio...CxPxCk4t2iMOW68c94QQaEgquQ/present?slide=id.p
 
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I got 5 roommates (total including myself) who would be down to run some $20 buy-ins, or maybe even $25 buy-in 25c/25c games. But also planning for 10 players, all $10 or even $5 buy-ins. Being college students I don't think the stakes will ever grow (for the bigger games) and most people will probably only rebuy once, if at all (max $20 each for 10 players, and $40 maybe $50 each for the 5 of us). I also don't like the idea of having more money on the table for bigger games. So here's the breakdown:

100x 5c ($5)
300x 25c ($75)
80x $1 ($80)
20x $5 ($100)

Total Bank = $260
For what it's worth, I think this is about the perfect breakdown for 5¢-10¢ blinds.

My only concern is if 25¢-25¢ is on your radar you are going to feel a little overbought on quarters and underbought on singles and fives. So I might add 80 singles and 20 fives to this breakdown. If you have to keep it to 500 chips, go ahead and reduce the quarters to 200.

You really don't need many fives at these stakes. You have 12 buy ins of $20 available before you even touch the fives. And then another 10 buy ins available using fives alone. For 6-8 handed play, more than enough.
 
@Machine I am so lost here, maybe too much reading? But about to embark on a Custom CPC Journey and want to get it right. Also wanting this new set to handle a smaller game (Like $20 Buy in) than our current, but I don't know what that should be? Ie is it .05 / .10 or .10 / .25 (I don't understand how the .10/.25 works to be honest). Not adverse to NCV chips at the Lowest and Highest ends to help this along. So main goal is to cover existing .25 / .50, but wanting to cover below:

Micro - .25/.50 - .50/$1 - $1/$1

We'll find other games, or venues for $1/$2 and even the $1/$1 ends up being a special grouping, like once in past 3 years; so kind of looking for minimum, not optimal.

We normally play .25 / .50 and we actually cap pretty hard at 8 players, the thought of planning on 10 is not lost on me, but again seems like alot of uneccessary spending. Don't want to pay for the exception, and would rather have the investment go into the rule, if that makes sense? Our game doesn't play large, in our initial Rack of $5s I've never broken into the last 2 Barrels. We also currently use a $2 chip, which I know is inefficient, and would maybe like to correct that going forward.

This is our current start for $50 Buy in:

12x .25
12x $1
5x $2
5x $5

Rebuys are handled with:

2x $5
2x $20

Whats the map out for this:

NCV Micro
.25
$1
$5
$20 or is this NCV Macro

First I would ask if you've read the link in my signature (landscape on mobile), hopefully you have as it will help in reading this response.

I rarely play .05 or .1 stakes, but I too recently purchased a new CPC set with it in mind. The smallest order for CPC is 300, or you can go in with someone else to meet mins. I bring this up because while I'll want a .05 chip, I don't want to go over my (annual) budget. I'm doing some crazy stuff and what if I don't like the chips. I'm trying to shy away from buying more of the same chip as there can be slight differences in color when purchased from different batches, year over year. I skipped the .05 for a future buy, but I do have an idea of what I want to pick up.

I ran a .25/.5 PLO game on my chip sets for over a year, I found for my group .25 / .5 slows the game down. I don't have a bunch of headphone wearing backpack GTO players, our group, they like to socialize. So we moved to .5/.5 and the dealer says 'option' and if they don't respond, he runs it.

For the flex of being able to run a .25/.25 and or a .5/.5 and the efficiency of my wallet in this regard I went non-denom, for the prescriptivist in me NCV is 'No Cash Value' and the chip is not a Tourney chip so ... As I wouldn't spread both a .25 and .5 in the same game this will work out.

As for the .05 chip, I'm not sure if I need to have a denom or can get away with a possible 2 non denom in a game of such low stakes and often those players would be less experiences and it might be confusing for them. This is a cognitive dissidence for another time.

The philosophical argument is the basis for this thread, if you said we only ever play mix games, and never more than 8, I would say great, calculate off of 8. BUT I wouldn't buy less than a rack of a given chip. I can give several scenarios where having a full rack of the chip is better position than not spending an additional 100 bucks.

Starting with a bank for 8 ppl, 3 rebuys and a $50 start, thats 1,200 and over time it will creep up.

12 fracs isn't crazy given that at 8 it still comes in under a rack. So making the assumption you forego a .05 chip atm lets call it
Non-Denom x 100

Onto the $1s, and a special case for the $2 which I have to say, for someone looking for or even just mentioning it, efficiency of cost, this is egregious, due to only a x2 value.

I think the best quantity of $1s in the avg .25/.5 or .5/.5 is 180, (due to it being a workhorse chip) in 1/1+ you're likely to not get more than 120 (and thats including NLH) on the table. Note this is for a single table, my entire post here assumes single table, so two racks covers all of it.
$1 x 200

I don't use $2 chips, I would think a single rack would cover anything you need, and if you spread 2 tables these will come in as a buffer for only buying 2 racks of 1s. I can't think of much 'usefulness' in this chip. I'm not a ba-humbug, this chip has to be fun and I'm sure its great in the game, it conflicts with the value statement though.
$2 x 100

For most of the break down I am ignoring the $2 chip and the affect it will have on the bank considerations, 1 rack is a gimmie in the overall affect. I don't think anyone should buy less than 3 racks of 5s, its always a workhorse chip (okay unless you're playing stakes less than .25/.25, which it is then not a workhorse chip).
$5 x 300

This will cover your bank and give you a buffer, tomorrow you may want to spread something a little different and this should be able to be versatile enough to cover that as well.

Recap
Frac x 100
1 x 200
2 x 100
5 x 300

Part of the factor of this break down comes with the ability to re-sell. This break down will fit 95% of the games ppl look to spread, you take out the 2s and it will cover just about any sub 1/1 game.

The budget for this chip set will typically be in the 2k-4k range.

If the reader doesn't want to go with the 2s and doesn't like plaques they can still do an add on and get value out of the set.

If you just want another cool chip or two to hold value and really pad the bank, you should be able to do 20 of two more denoms for minimal impact on your wallet. Also moar chips! Its also a great way to test out a chip. If it was my order I would do

20 x 20
100 x 20

and go ham on the 20 and hundo. Or you could do a tribute chip, or an $8 chip, player chip, all kinds of fun stuff.
 
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For what it's worth, I think this is about the perfect breakdown for 5¢-10¢ blinds.

My only concern is if 25¢-25¢ is on your radar you are going to feel a little overbought on quarters and underbought on singles and fives. So I might add 80 singles and 20 fives to this breakdown. If you have to keep it to 500 chips, go ahead and reduce the quarters to 200.

You really don't need many fives at these stakes. You have 12 buy ins of $20 available before you even touch the fives. And then another 10 buy ins available using fives alone. For 6-8 handed play, more than enough.
I think you're under selling the reduction, 300 is a waste of money imo.

Hard to argue with the 200 though.
 
Could someone sanity check this stack setup for me? Trying to attempt to make an ultra versitile chip set for multiple NLH Cash game stakes with a target stack of 100BB.

200x - $0.05
200x - $0.25
200x - $1
75x - $5
25x - $25
700 Total Chips
There is no stake where you would need more than 100 5¢ for a single table. 10 chips per player in initial starting stacks is fine. Otherwise 200 quarters and singles are pretty good for stakes between 5¢-5¢ and 25¢-25¢.

Spreadsheet tells me:

20x $10 - 10/10/2/1/0 for $0.05/$0.10
20x $25 - 10/10/7/3/0 for $0.10/$0.25
16x $50 - 0/12/12/2/1 for $0.25/$0.50
12x $100 - 0/12/17/6/2 for $0.50/$1.00
Many PCF hosts (myself included) have a strategy of getting all the needed low denom chips in play right away and then doing rebuy stacks with higher chips only. This is part of why it's okay to reduce the number of "blind chips". (There are many other posts detailing this in this very thread.)

So your starting stacks for 5¢-5¢ through 10¢-25¢ could look something like this:

First 10 stacks 10/18/x of 5¢/25¢/1 (where x is the number of singles needed to make the desired buy in.)
11th stack 0/20/x
Remaining stacks in singles and fives.

Or even...

First 5 stacks 20/20/x
Next 5 stacks x/20/x
Remaining stacks in singles and fives only.

That said, the higher blinds in your range a little optimistic for 600 chips. You are surely covered for your first two stakes for sure. But really you probably need to be willing to go to 800 chips to cover a range that would handle 2000BB (2 buy-ins * 10 players * 100BB) at 25¢-50¢ or 50¢-1 blinds.

I would suggest this breakdown if you want to include 25¢-50¢ or 50¢-1 blinds in quantities of 25 chips.

5¢ * 100
25¢ * 200
1 * 200
5 * 150
25 * 50

This does cover 2 buy-ins per player, but if you should get to a spot where you need more in a 50¢-1, you could let $100 notes play.

Hope this helps.
 
I think you're under selling the reduction, 300 is a waste of money imo.

Hard to argue with the 200 though.
At 5¢-5¢ and 5¢-10¢ the quarter is the workhorse, and I do share the taste of targeting 1-2 barrels of the workhorse chip per player in NL games. If you buy in for $300 in a live casino game, you will usually be given the buy in with 3 barrels of fives. (sometimes a little less if they break a couple chips into singles for blinds.)

If those were the only stakes of interest for @euvi , I would probably say stick with the 300 quarters. But because we are trying to stretch over a range, some tradeoffs are needed. (Although just letting the set grow is always an option as well. I mean I have an active set of 2000 chips :p.)
 
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You're quoting a post from 6 years ago and I've posted in this thread that my current layout is totally different. I've also asked this thread to be deleted several times to no avail.

Not to nit pick.
Why would we want this thread deleted? It's surely one of the 2-3 best threads on this topic on the forum. (Though I would be curious what has changed in your approach to this over the past 6 years.)

There is an "unwatch" button at the top right if you don't wish to get notifications on this anymore. But PCF would lose something of value if this thread were lost.
 

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