The Beginners Guide To Mapping Out A Cash Game Chip Set - 5c/10c to $5/$10 (3 Viewers)

[Natskule]

Hi, I have been reading this thread and many others on the Forum for some time as I look to purchase my first quality poker set. I have been using cheap dice sets for years and am looking into purchasing a 600 piece set of Milano chips with custom denominations. I usually host a low stakes fun cash poker game for about a $20-$50 starting buy-in depending on what the group wants with optional rebuys if your stack gets low. Our blinds are typically 25 cent / 50 cent or 50 cent / $1. And at the end of the night people can cash out for what they have left. We are usually 6 to 9 players I would say but would like the option for more if needed.

Even though we generally play cash games, I want the option to use the same set for a tournament, and also don't like the idea of buying 25 cent / 50 cent Milano chips. So, I am thinking of buying one of the following two options below I put together, so that say someone's $20 or $40 or $50 cash buy-in would give them either $10,000 in chips or $20,000 in chips depending on which option I choose, and then at the end of the night I would cash everyone out using a quick spreadsheet and pay them out. Option 1 would leave me with enough chips for about 3 re-buys after 11 players buy-in, and Option 2 would leave me with enough chips for about 2 re-buys after 11 players buy in. A cashing out example would be if everyone bought in for $20 and I did Option 2 below with each player getting $20,000 in chips, then a player finishing with $5,000 in chips would get paid out $5 cash, and player ending with $47,250 in chips would be paid out $47.25. We usually use Venmo / Zelle so I am thinking it should not be too difficult to pay out, but I wanted to get people's thoughts before I pulled the trigger on the purchase. Any thoughts on if this is a good idea or not and which option of the two below would be better would be much appreciated. I have been racking my brain for different ideas that would allow me to also use the set for a tournament setup and this is what I came up with. Thank you very much in advance!

View attachment 1372864

Take the math out of the cash in/out. If you are getting custom denominations, make the denominations those that you use. Make a $5 chip worth $5. Tournament structures can start with a penny or a million, doesn't matter and all play basically the same, but makes cash games infinitely easier.

I've done the $10 gets you $100 in chips type cash games, but not by choice and just out of necessity. If buying chips, make the denominations fit the cash game first if you are using them for both cash and tournament. I prefer separate sets, but when limited options exist, I'll take a cash set and we can always turn it into a tournament set using basic principles.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Hi, I have been reading this thread and many others on the Forum for some time as I look to purchase my first quality poker set. I have been using cheap dice sets for years and am looking into purchasing a 600 piece set of Milano chips with custom denominations. I usually host a low stakes fun cash poker game for about a $20-$50 starting buy-in depending on what the group wants with optional rebuys if your stack gets low. Our blinds are typically 25 cent / 50 cent or 50 cent / $1. And at the end of the night people can cash out for what they have left. We are usually 6 to 9 players I would say but would like the option for more if needed.

Even though we generally play cash games, I want the option to use the same set for a tournament, and also don't like the idea of buying 25 cent / 50 cent Milano chips. So, I am thinking of buying one of the following two options below I put together, so that say someone's $20 or $40 or $50 cash buy-in would give them either $10,000 in chips or $20,000 in chips depending on which option I choose, and then at the end of the night I would cash everyone out using a quick spreadsheet and pay them out. Option 1 would leave me with enough chips for about 3 re-buys after 11 players buy-in, and Option 2 would leave me with enough chips for about 2 re-buys after 11 players buy in. A cashing out example would be if everyone bought in for $20 and I did Option 2 below with each player getting $20,000 in chips, then a player finishing with $5,000 in chips would get paid out $5 cash, and player ending with $47,250 in chips would be paid out $47.25. We usually use Venmo / Zelle so I am thinking it should not be too difficult to pay out, but I wanted to get people's thoughts before I pulled the trigger on the purchase. Any thoughts on if this is a good idea or not and which option of the two below would be better would be much appreciated. I have been racking my brain for different ideas that would allow me to also use the set for a tournament setup and this is what I came up with. Thank you very much in advance!

View attachment 1372864

What you are suggesting will work, but it's not ideal. I was in the same place as you 4 years ago. I wanted to make one inexpensive set of chips work for everything. While a set like that might work for multiple types of games, it's not ideal for any of them. Plus the longer I spent here, the more sets I wanted to buy. I promise you will want a seperate set if you end up playing tournaments. And then the set you bought for both won't be very good for either. The breakdowns for cash games and tournament games are very different, so the sets won't be efficient. And it's hard to sell Milanos here, especially if you have an odd breakdown.

If you mostly play cash games, get a cash game set now that uses the denoms you are going to actually use in your games. One set can still cover multiple stakes, for example a range from 0.25/.050 up to $1/2 with as few as 600 chips. What's your objection to buying 25c chips? They are very versatile.

And finally, as someone else said, Milanos are just not great chips. You can do better for similar money. The hands down best beginner chips are what we call Tina hybrids. If you haven't seen any of the Tina threads yet, then don't buy anything until you do. You can get fully custom chips for only a bit more than the cost of Milanos.

Here's a thread to start with to see what Tina hybrids are all about.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...d-cards-mold-textured-no-mold-09-2024.122512/

 

[SixSeven]

I’m working on finalizing a CPC custom set, and am looking to figure out a good set size.

I’m looking to buy ~700 chips. I usually host $0.25/$0.25, and the game is pretty limpy, as I host more I want to test the waters with higher stakes but that is currently how my game plays.

starting stacks are as follows for $50:
12 x $0.25
16 x $1
6 x $5

My initial thought is to have this setup:
120 x $0.25
200 x $1
200 x $5
100 x $25
40 x $100

I also like playing $5 craps with my fiancée on a topper I built. Which is why I wanted to add more $5 chips, and it will help future proof for when I host larger games.

I run a similar game and these numbers work excellent for me. But 17 x $1 to make it $20 with the 12 x $.25c chips & the 6 x $5 chips for $50. I have 120 x $.25, 180 x $1, 220 x $5, and 100 x $20, & 20 x $100. But like it was said, I don't use the $100 chips at all. I have them for when I have a bigger game. And you said you might want to try that, so doesn't hurt to have the $100 chips.

 

[mikx]

Chips Needed - 500 Total Chips

100x 25c ($25)
100x $1 ($100)
150x $5 ($150)
50x $25 ($1,250)
50x $100 ($5,000)

Total Bank: $6,525

Thanks a lot. This is a great guide.
I have run over a hundred home games - both Cash & Tourney - and currently look to upgrade my chips.

I haven't read all answers - so sorry if it was already commented:
There is a small math error in your original post:
It should be 150x $5 ($750)
and therefore the Total bank is: $7,125

 

[Quad Johnson]

Thanks a lot. This is a great guide.
I have run over a hundred home games - both Cash & Tourney - and currently look to upgrade my chips.

I haven't read all answers - so sorry if it was already commented:
There is a small math error in your original post:
It should be 150x $5 ($750)
and therefore the Total bank is: $7,125

Unfortunately the post is so old I cannot edit but thank you!

 

[DaMrkstr]

What you are suggesting will work, but it's not ideal. I was in the same place as you 4 years ago. I wanted to make one inexpensive set of chips work for everything. While a set like that might work for multiple types of games, it's not ideal for any of them. Plus the longer I spent here, the more sets I wanted to buy. I promise you will want a seperate set if you end up playing tournaments. And then the set you bought for both won't be very good for either. The breakdowns for cash games and tournament games are very different, so the sets won't be efficient. And it's hard to sell Milanos here, especially if you have an odd breakdown.

If you mostly play cash games, get a cash game set now that uses the denoms you are going to actually use in your games. One set can still cover multiple stakes, for example a range from 0.25/.050 up to $1/2 with as few as 600 chips. What's your objection to buying 25c chips? They are very versatile.

And finally, as someone else said, Milanos are just not great chips. You can do better for similar money. The hands down best beginner chips are what we call Tina hybrids. If you haven't seen any of the Tina threads yet, then don't buy anything until you do. You can get fully custom chips for only a bit more than the cost of Milanos.

Here's a thread to start with to see what Tina hybrids are all about.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...d-cards-mold-textured-no-mold-09-2024.122512/

@Coyote @Natskule @TX_Golf_N_Poker
Thank you to all three of you for your feedback and suggestions. It is much appreciated! My apologies for my delay in responding as I was out of town. I am definitely rethinking my denominations now based on your feedback, so I am glad I asked before pulling the trigger. Also, I am very glad I asked about the Milanos and heard your input, its funny because in posts I have been looking at from a few years ago, they appeared very popular, but now I see that in recent posts, not so much.
@TX_Golf_N_Poker I have spent way too much time looking at the Tina hybrids, and they look cool, but I can't seem to find anything about what the chips are actually made of? are they ceramics? Looking at the post you shared as well regarding the group buy, I am a bit confused about all the various options for sale. In terms of chip type/quality could you break it down for me? They seem to have 1) web mold, 2) greek molds, 3) textured no-mold, and 4) cards mold. It would be helpful to understand the difference between those 4 types. Are just the first two hybrids?

Also, just for context, I started my search for new chips, changing away from my original dice chips I have had since the early 2000s, and was thinking I would want to spend some where in the $250 range including shipping ideally for a 600 piece set. My absolute max would be $300 but I didn't want to go that high, and was looking for a 600 piece set just to give some range and flexibility in terms of how many people I can accommodate. I was originally thinking of buying Monte Carlo poker chips from Apache, but then thought I would upgrade, and that's when I landed on the Milanos (https://www.discountcasinogear.com/600-Milano-Poker-Chip-Set-Acrylic-p/bb22707.htm), but I am happy to shift away from those. If I didn't go the group buy route (which I am open to, but don't know enough about at this point), I think in my price range the other options would be Scroll Ceramic Chips (https://www.discountcasinogear.com/600-Scroll-Poker-Chip-Set-Acrylic-p/bb22783.htm). If I purchased from Apache, the Monte Carlos are obviously in my price range, but then its a jump up to the Majestics (clay) or Empire (ceramics) chips on there which I also like, and with shipping for a 600 piece set those would come out to about $310 for me with shipping, which I could swing if it was my best option. (and that's without a case, but that's ok!) Would you guys also deter me against the Majestics as well though, or are those not considered "China clays" like the Milanos? Any other thoughts on Monte Carlos, Scrolls, Majestics, Empires, or other recommendations for the best chip set for my money would be amazing! I have read and considered so much but I feel like I am back to square one now unfortunately! Thank you!

 

[Coyote]

New generation hybrid ceramics is the way to go, either from Apache (Empire) or Broken Arrow ("Tina" chips).

 

[SixSeven]

New generation hybrid ceramics is the way to go, either from Apache (Empire) or Broken Arrow ("Tina" chips).

For the Web mold, Greek mold, Cards mold, and textured No Mold (all ceramic) Tina Broken Arrow from @justincarothers chips, you really got to get a sample and feel them. When I got mine, there weren't the Web or Greek options yet, just Cards and Textured No Mold, and I was told the Cards mold were better. But I felt the two, and really liked the textured No Mold better and went with that. It's takes longer to get samples but it is worth it, since you will have them and use them for a while.

 

[DaMrkstr]

Thank you all. Would you say the Tina Greek or Web mold hybrids are better quality or comparable to Empire (Apache) Ceramics or Scroll Ceramics for example? The Scrolls would be a bit cheaper in price. I am really liking the Tina chips, but all of the more traditional casino sets I would like would be more expensive because of the label costs. Thank you!

 

[Coyote]

They are all the same (good) material. Get samples.

 

[Labrat]

Thank you all. Would you say the Tina Greek or Web mold hybrids are better quality or comparable to Empire (Apache) Ceramics or Scroll Ceramics for example? The Scrolls would be a bit cheaper in price. I am really liking the Tina chips, but all of the more traditional casino sets I would like would be more expensive because of the label costs. Thank you!

This is based solely on my experience, so take it with a grain of salt. The hybrids (Greek or Web) are absolutely awesome for the price, but there's the label fee. If you can buy all you need at once, it's well-worth it. But keep in mind if you find you need a rack or two to add on later, it's going to cost you bigly with that same label fee.

I have a set of 800 card molds from Justin and not a single spinner. Others have said they have had ~10% spinners. I have not experienced that so far.

However, with the barrel sample of the textured no-molds, I got two spinners (10% on a meaningless sample). But if a few spinners don't bother you, don't hesitate to look at card or no-molds.

Interestingly enough, I have one web mold hybrid that is a spinner and for the life of me I can't figure out how because in the stack it doesn't affect anything.

It's bizarre.

 

[BGinGA]

Would you say the Tina Greek or Web mold hybrids are better quality or comparable to Empire (Apache) Ceramics or Scroll Ceramics for example? The Scrolls would be a bit cheaper in price. I am really liking the Tina chips, but all of the more traditional casino sets I would like would be more expensive because of the label costs.

Any hybrid ceramic chip will out-perform any plain ceramic chip or debossed ceramic chip. Debossed hybrid ceramic molds sit at the top of the ceramic chip heap, especially if 43mm and/or with outlined (vs solid) debossed images.

The Broken Arrow web and greek hybrids are both outlined-image debossed hybrid ceramic molds, available in 39mm or 43mm size. The Apache Empire chips are debossed-image card mold ceramics (not hybrids). The Scroll chips are cheap plain (no-mold) ceramics not worth the asking price.

Think of your chip purchase long-term. Spread over time, the extra money spent on better chips will go unnoticed, but the better quality will be enjoyed for a long time.

 

[DaMrkstr]

Any hybrid ceramic chip will out-perform any plain ceramic chip or debossed ceramic chip. Debossed hybrid ceramic molds sit at the top of the ceramic chip heap, especially if 43mm and/or with outlined (vs solid) debossed images.

The Broken Arrow web and greek hybrids are both outlined-image debossed hybrid ceramic molds, available in 39mm or 43mm size. The Apache Empire chips are debossed-image card mold ceramics (not hybrids). The Scroll chips are cheap plain (no-mold) ceramics not worth the asking price.

Think of your chip purchase long-term. Spread over time, the extra money spent on better chips will go unnoticed, but the better quality will be enjoyed for a long time.

Thank you @Coyote @Labrat @BGinGA for all the info. This is helpful. I will probably go with the Broken Arrow web molds. Just deciding whether to go with the Empress with no-label fee or White Sands with the decreased fee, or waiting for a later set. Since I am just getting one set, I like the more traditional Casino looking chips, although the Simpson chips do look cool. Thank you!

 

[DaMrkstr]

Thank you @Coyote @Labrat @BGinGA for all the info. This is helpful. I will probably go with the Broken Arrow web molds. Just deciding whether to go with the Empress with no-label fee or White Sands with the decreased fee, or waiting for a later set. Since I am just getting one set, I like the more traditional Casino looking chips, although the Simpson chips do look cool. Thank you!

So, Please excuse me if this was already discussed earlier in the thread, but I am a bit of a newbie to the blog, and have decided to purchase a Broken Arrow Empress set, for a home cash game with 25c/50c small/big blinds, and was reviewing the breakdowns in the original post. In the 25c/50c mapping it says for a $100 max buy in to give each player 8 x 25c and to purchase total 100 x 25c, and the chip distribution is top heavy with more $1 and $5 then 25c.

In my home game, we usually do a $25 or $50 buy-in with optional re-buys, and I obviously do want to leave the option for a $100 buy-in game. But with the above OP setup, it doesn't seem to me that each player will have enough big blinds (50c) if you only get 8x25c, am I right? I think that breakdown above lends itself better to a higher stakes game?

I am considering purchasing this breakdown below, and wrote out many chip scenarios for 10 players, ($20, $25, $50, $100 buy-in) and it seems to cover it. I know this will lend itself to more chips on the table, but also in my mind more big blinds available per player, assuming players aren't always raising off the bat. Are there any major issues with this breakdown below? Thank you!

$ 0.25 x 250
$ 1 x 200
$ 5 x 100
$ 25 x 50
Total: 600 Chips

 

[springbox]

So, Please excuse me if this was already discussed earlier in the thread, but I am a bit of a newbie to the blog, and have decided to purchase a Broken Arrow Empress set, for a home cash game with 25c/50c small/big blinds, and was reviewing the breakdowns in the original post. In the 25c/50c mapping it says for a $100 max buy in to give each player 8 x 25c and to purchase total 100 x 25c, and the chip distribution is top heavy with more $1 and $5 then 25c.

In my home game, we usually do a $25 or $50 buy-in with optional re-buys, and I obviously do want to leave the option for a $100 buy-in game. But with the above OP setup, it doesn't seem to me that each player will have enough big blinds (50c) if you only get 8x25c, am I right? I think that breakdown above lends itself better to a higher stakes game?

I am considering purchasing this breakdown below, and wrote out many chip scenarios for 10 players, ($20, $25, $50, $100 buy-in) and it seems to cover it. I know this will lend itself to more chips on the table, but also in my mind more big blinds available per player, assuming players aren't always raising off the bat. Are there any major issues with this breakdown below? Thank you!

$ 0.25 x 250
$ 1 x 200
$ 5 x 100
$ 25 x 50
Total: 600 Chips

250 is just too many quarters. That's 25 per player which is definitely more than you'll need. $1 should be your most used chip in a 25c/50c game. The goal is to have enough chips that you aren't constantly making change, but a little change-making is normal and there's no feasible way to give people enough chips to never make change. 8x25c is on the lower end, but 25x25c is overkill. Maybe settle in between at 12x25c or 16x25c per player? Certainly stop at 20.

Whatever you cut out of your quarter count I would add to the $5s. 150/200/200/50 wouldn't be a bad spread if you're really concerned about it, an average of 15 quarters per player should mean no excessive change making.

 

[Machine]

$1 AND $5 should be your most used chip in a 25c/50c game.

Fixed it for you

Are there any major issues with this breakdown below? Thank you!

$ 0.25 x 250
$ 1 x 200
$ 5 x 100
$ 25 x 50
Total: 600 Chips

I would echo what @springbox said, I would venture the majority of hosts would agree with his assessment.
Basically, you have too many .25 and not enough 5s

I have a breakdown thread in my signature but tldr
100 x .25
200 x 1
400 x 5
20 x 20
10 x 100

I host a .50/.50 game w/ $100 buy in and we play for 8 hours multiple rebuys and I typically would not use more than this amount of chips.

At $50 w/ 3 rebuys per player @ 9 players, your bank is $1350 and w/ $100 buy-ins its $2700 - my suggested break down bank is $3625

On the other side of the making change argument is slowing down the game by having too many lower denoms, you start to see people betting $5 in .25 checks, its a sad day, because then they have to turn around and make change for the rebuy or $5 check they didn't want to put in the pot.

I ran my .25/.5 game for over two years on 60 quarters. You can always go back to the vendor and buy more chips, start with 100 x .25 and add if you feel you really need them.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

So, Please excuse me if this was already discussed earlier in the thread, but I am a bit of a newbie to the blog, and have decided to purchase a Broken Arrow Empress set, for a home cash game with 25c/50c small/big blinds, and was reviewing the breakdowns in the original post. In the 25c/50c mapping it says for a $100 max buy in to give each player 8 x 25c and to purchase total 100 x 25c, and the chip distribution is top heavy with more $1 and $5 then 25c.

In my home game, we usually do a $25 or $50 buy-in with optional re-buys, and I obviously do want to leave the option for a $100 buy-in game. But with the above OP setup, it doesn't seem to me that each player will have enough big blinds (50c) if you only get 8x25c, am I right? I think that breakdown above lends itself better to a higher stakes game?

I am considering purchasing this breakdown below, and wrote out many chip scenarios for 10 players, ($20, $25, $50, $100 buy-in) and it seems to cover it. I know this will lend itself to more chips on the table, but also in my mind more big blinds available per player, assuming players aren't always raising off the bat. Are there any major issues with this breakdown below? Thank you!

$ 0.25 x 250
$ 1 x 200
$ 5 x 100
$ 25 x 50
Total: 600 Chips

I'll echo what the other guys said. 100 quarters is enough to run a good 25c/50c game. I do like a few more, so I use 120. But don't give 8 or 12 to each player. The math and distributing the chips works much better if you give the first guys who buy in a full barrel. So all your quarters are on the table by the time you have 5-6 guys seated, then the other guys just get $1s and $5s. Same with $1s. Give each player a full barrel, then everything else in $5s.

So the first 6 players (in my $50 game) get:

25c x 20
$1 x 20
$5 x 5

Then the last guys to sit get one additional $5 instead of the quarters. You make a little change the first few hands, and after that, everything runs very smoothly. You store your chips away in barrels, so isn't it also much easier to hand most of them out in barrels?

Also, as they said, you do not have near enough $5 chips. Minimum is 200, and 300-400 is better. $25 chips are extremely awkward at this stakes level until there is more than $1500 on the table. If you never plan to play that big, then you don't need any at all, but you do need more $5s. With your breakdown above, you have over 60% of your bank tied up in chips that don't play well at your stakes. Don't do that.

 

[SixSeven]

250 is just too many quarters. That's 25 per player which is definitely more than you'll need. $1 should be your most used chip in a 25c/50c game. The goal is to have enough chips that you aren't constantly making change, but a little change-making is normal and there's no feasible way to give people enough chips to never make change. 8x25c is on the lower end, but 25x25c is overkill. Maybe settle in between at 12x25c or 16x25c per player? Certainly stop at 20.

Whatever you cut out of your quarter count I would add to the $5s. 150/200/200/50 wouldn't be a bad spread if you're really concerned about it, an average of 15 quarters per player should mean no excessive change making.

I agree with @springbox & @Machine in their suggestions. Tacking on, I run a .25/.25c game and .25/.50 and do fine with $3 of quarters and not needing too much change. But you definitely want lot's of $1s and $5s as those do the workhorse of the game as @Machine says. Raises are usually $1.25 or more (not very many .75 cent or $1 raises). For the breakdown of one buy in, I like 12 $.25c chips for $3 and 17 of $1 for a total of $20 between the two, and you can fill in the rest with $5's, whether you are doing $25 or $50. Of course you could do 12 $.25c, 12 of $1's and 2 $5s if you are doing $25 to get more $5s in play. So just multiply the amount of chips for 1 rebuy you want to do times 9 or 10 players. After the initial rebuy, just give rebuys in $5's or $25 chips (I personally use $20's). I like 220 of $5 to get more rebuys of $5 on the table before moving to $25 chips, but that is more of a host preference. At a certain point it is easier to get $25 dollar chips for rebuys than reach for a lot of $5 chips if you are doing $50 or $100 rebuys. Hope this helps.

Edit: I store my chips in a chip case, not racks. That makes it harder to hand out chips from it to start, so I have 10 racks I use for setup of up to 10 buy ins to start, and it is easy to hand out chips in the racks to players after they buy in. Some hosts have the chips all set up on the table for players and then just do the buy ins. Also, I mentioned .75c raise and 1.25 raises, those are regarding a $.25/.25c game. For $.25/.50c, a raise of $1.50 or $2 is more likely. Less quarters might be needed but I like to have quarters for raises like $2.25 and 1.75.

 

[DaMrkstr]

I agree with @springbox & @Machine in their suggestions. Tacking on, I run a .25/.25c game and .25/.50 and do fine with $3 of quarters and not needing too much change. But you definitely want lot's of $1s and $5s as those do the workhorse of the game as @Machine says. Raises are usually $1.25 or more (not very many .75 cent or $1 raises). For the breakdown of one buy in, I like 12 $.25c chips for $3 and 17 of $1 for a total of $20 between the two, and you can fill in the rest with $5's, whether you are doing $25 or $50. Of course you could do 12 $.25c, 12 of $1's and 2 $5s if you are doing $25 to get more $5s in play. So just multiply the amount of chips for 1 rebuy you want to do times 9 or 10 players. After the initial rebuy, just give rebuys in $5's or $25 chips (I personally use $20's). I like 220 of $5 to get more rebuys of $5 on the table before moving to $25 chips, but that is more of a host preference. At a certain point it is easier to get $25 dollar chips for rebuys than reach for a lot of $5 chips if you are doing $50 or $100 rebuys. Hope this helps.

Edit: I store my chips in a chip case, not racks. That makes it harder to hand out chips from it to start, so I have 10 racks I use for setup of up to 10 buy ins to start, and it is easy to hand out chips in the racks to players after they buy in. Some hosts have the chips all set up on the table for players and then just do the buy ins. Also, I mentioned .75c raise and 1.25 raises, those are regarding a $.25/.25c game. For $.25/.50c, a raise of $1.50 or $2 is more likely. Less quarters might be needed but I like to have quarters for raises like $2.25 and 1.75.

Thank you all @springbox @Machine @TX_Golf_N_Poker @SixSeven for your feedback. That is super helpful. I would say my game is generally lower stakes, hence why I was making it quarter heavy, but I definitely understand and appreciate the math about getting your quarters out on the table early. Also, although we are doing $25 games now, I do see us moving to $50 or more soon hopefully and people do rebuy. Also, I always have played small blind/big blind. @SixSeven what is the advantage of small/small if you don't mind me asking?

So, I am looking to get a 600 piece set, so settling here now, but I am still between 125 or 150 quarters, but am in agreement about not distributing more than average 12-16 per player, with more coming out early with first 5 or 6 players. I personally see the $1 being used more frequently in my game than the $5, so am leaning towards adding more of those, or should I consider more $5's regardless. Also @TX_Golf_N_Poker I totally agree about the $25's not coming into play much. It's more just to round out the set with 4 denominations and have a plaque type chip for the big stacks to color up with.
$0.25 x 150 (or 125)
$1 x 225 (or 250 or adding 25x$5)
$5 x 200
$25 x 25
Total: 600

Thank you!

 

[SixSeven]

Also, I always have played small blind/big blind. @SixSeven what is the advantage of small/small if you don't mind me asking?

$.25/.25c allows for more big blinds with the $50 buy in. With a $50 buy in you have 200bb to start or with a $25 buy in you have 100bb. If you are doing $.25/.50c blinds and a $25 buy in, you only have 50bb to start, which is pretty shallow stacked for a cash game. It is usually desired to start with at least 100bb.

 

[BGinGA]

Thank you all @springbox @Machine @TX_Golf_N_Poker @SixSeven for your feedback. That is super helpful. I would say my game is generally lower stakes, hence why I was making it quarter heavy, but I definitely understand and appreciate the math about getting your quarters out on the table early. Also, although we are doing $25 games now, I do see us moving to $50 or more soon hopefully and people do rebuy. Also, I always have played small blind/big blind. @SixSeven what is the advantage of small/small if you don't mind me asking?

So, I am looking to get a 600 piece set, so settling here now, but I am still between 125 or 150 quarters, but am in agreement about not distributing more than average 12-16 per player, with more coming out early with first 5 or 6 players. I personally see the $1 being used more frequently in my game than the $5, so am leaning towards adding more of those, or should I consider more $5's regardless. Also @TX_Golf_N_Poker I totally agree about the $25's not coming into play much. It's more just to round out the set with 4 denominations and have a plaque type chip for the big stacks to color up with.
$0.25 x 150 (or 125)
$1 x 225 (or 250 or adding 25x$5)
$5 x 200
$25 x 25
Total: 600

Thank you!

In your circumstances, 'd go with:

125 x 25c
225 x $1
200 x $5
50 x $25
-----------
600 chips, $ 2500+ bank

 

[DaMrkstr]

In your circumstances, 'd go with:

125 x 25c
225 x $1
200 x $5
50 x $25
-----------
600 chips, $ 2500+ bank

Thank you @SixSeven @BGinGA That is very helpful. I have been reading a bit more and given it is more of a casual friendly home game, and less high stakes, I see the advantage of having slightly more lower denominations chips than usual. Also, given what @TX_Golf_N_Poker was saying, I was leaning towards only 25x$25 just because I see them rarely being used. But my proposed breakdown above would have a lower total bank, but I am not sure how problematic that is for my game type though. If I kept the 125 x 25c and reduced 25 x 25c, would it be ok to increase to 250 x $1, or better to add 25 more $5's? I just don't see them used as much as the $1, but I could if it will help with playability and the bank if that is better. Thank you!

This breakdown would give me a bank of just over $1,900. Would this be a good middle-ground or would you recommend moving 25 from the $1 to the $5?? Just given my group's play style, I feel that the $1 is more used, but making the change and adding $5's would increase the bank to $2,000. Does that matter at all and help in terms of the math and playability or not really? I am about to put in my order! Thank you!
125 x 25c
250 x $1
200 x $5
25 x $25
600 Total

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Thank you @SixSeven @BGinGA That is very helpful. I have been reading a bit more and given it is more of a casual friendly home game, and less high stakes, I see the advantage of having slightly more lower denominations chips than usual. Also, given what @TX_Golf_N_Poker was saying, I was leaning towards only 25x$25 just because I see them rarely being used. But my proposed breakdown above would have a lower total bank, but I am not sure how problematic that is for my game type though. If I kept the 125 x 25c and reduced 25 x 25c, would it be ok to increase to 250 x $1, or better to add 25 more $5's? I just don't see them used as much as the $1, but I could if it will help with playability and the bank if that is better. Thank you!

This breakdown would give me a bank of just over $1,900. Would this be a good middle-ground or would you recommend moving 25 from the $1 to the $5?? Just given my group's play style, I feel that the $1 is more used, but making the change and adding $5's would increase the bank to $2,000. Does that matter at all and help in terms of the math and playability or not really? I am about to put in my order! Thank you!
125 x 25c
250 x $1
200 x $5
25 x $25
600 Total

Are you still purchasing Milanos, or did you change to Tina chips?

It seems like you are trying to balance the playability your group currently likes of having lots of smaller denoms against having enough bank if your game grows. Is there something that is preventing you from getting more than 600 chips? These (Milanos or Tinas) are both pretty inexpensive. Adding another 100 chips will easily resolve this conflict for around $50. If you think you may at some point in the future need more chips, I'd get them now, just to be certain that you don't end up with chips made in different batches that may not exactly match.

I understand your position, as I was there myself 4 years ago when I joined PCF. If you end up sticking around here, you will look back and laugh (or cry) about how you struggled to stay in budget and didn't get what you really needed, all to save $50...

 

[DaMrkstr]

Are you still purchasing Milanos, or did you change to Tina chips?

It seems like you are trying to balance the playability your group currently likes of having lots of smaller denoms against having enough bank if your game grows. Is there something that is preventing you from getting more than 600 chips? These (Milanos or Tinas) are both pretty inexpensive. Adding another 100 chips will easily resolve this conflict for around $50. If you think you may at some point in the future need more chips, I'd get them now, just to be certain that you don't end up with chips made in different batches that may not exactly match.

I understand your position, as I was there myself 4 years ago when I joined PCF. If you end up sticking around here, you will look back and laugh (or cry) about how you struggled to stay in budget and didn't get what you really needed, all to save $50...

I have decided to buy Broken Arrow's Hybrid Web Mold Ceramics and really want the Mirage Set, but I don't really want to spend more than $300 tops with shipping, so I am hoping that others order the same set so it drives down the cost a bit. Otherwise I might get his Empress set that currently has no label fee.
I am confident that this breakdown below with a 600 piece set would be more than enough for my group. I am happy to change the quantities around a bit but don't want to go above the 600 for cost purposes, and honestly don't think I need it. I was considering dropping the quarters to 125 and upping the $1 by 25, but tbh, I think less change making would be preferable with the group, but if the swap would make a huge different for me set lmk and I could easily change it back. Thank you for all your help!

Mirage 39mm Web Mold Cash
$.25 - 150
$1 - 225
$5 - 200
$25 - 25
600 Total Chips

 

[DaMrkstr]

I have decided to buy Broken Arrow's Hybrid Web Mold Ceramics and really want the Mirage Set, but I don't really want to spend more than $300 tops with shipping, so I am hoping that others order the same set so it drives down the cost a bit. Otherwise I might get his Empress set that currently has no label fee.
I am confident that this breakdown below with a 600 piece set would be more than enough for my group. I am happy to change the quantities around a bit but don't want to go above the 600 for cost purposes, and honestly don't think I need it. I was considering dropping the quarters to 125 and upping the $1 by 25, but tbh, I think less change making would be preferable with the group, but if the swap would make a huge different for me set lmk and I could easily change it back. Thank you for all your help!

Mirage 39mm Web Mold Cash
$.25 - 150
$1 - 225
$5 - 200
$25 - 25
600 Total Chips

@TX_Golf_N_Poker @BGinGA Is what I sent above reasonable, or do you see a big benefit to dropping the quarters by 25 and moving it either to $1, $5, or $25? I am open on that. Thank you!

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

I have decided to buy Broken Arrow's Hybrid Web Mold Ceramics and really want the Mirage Set, but I don't really want to spend more than $300 tops with shipping, so I am hoping that others order the same set so it drives down the cost a bit. Otherwise I might get his Empress set that currently has no label fee.
I am confident that this breakdown below with a 600 piece set would be more than enough for my group. I am happy to change the quantities around a bit but don't want to go above the 600 for cost purposes, and honestly don't think I need it. I was considering dropping the quarters to 125 and upping the $1 by 25, but tbh, I think less change making would be preferable with the group, but if the swap would make a huge different for me set lmk and I could easily change it back. Thank you for all your help!

Mirage 39mm Web Mold Cash
$.25 - 150
$1 - 225
$5 - 200
$25 - 25
600 Total Chips

In that case, I strongly suggest that you do the following to avoid future heartache and EWS. (empty wallet syndrome)

• Order your chips
• Receive your chips and post photos in several appropriate threads.
• Log out of PCF
• LOSE YOUR PASSWORD AND NEVER COME BACK!!!

Otherwise, if you stick around, you will be in the same boat as all of us. I had the exact budget you had when I joined here.

• My first set was within budget.
• My second set was very reasonably priced Tina cards molds, but I decided to purchase enough to host a three table tournament, so went over budget by a couple hundred dollars. I've used these chips once!
• I stuck around and kept admiring all the neat casino sets of real clay Paulson chips.
• I spent a very small amount on some clay chip samples. I loved them!
• I had the opportunity to buy a very reasonable set of clay chips. Not Paulson, but neat old vintage casino chips. When I joined here, I was amazed that some people spent over $1 a chip, and flabbergasted that others were spending $5 a chip and up! That is freaking insane!!!
• So the set mentioned was $700 for 600 chips. Yes, over $1 per chip. I found ways to justify and made the purchase. That's it! I have all the chips I need!
• Fast forward 3 more years to today. I have at least 7 or 8 playable sets. I have racks of other chips for sets that I'm building. I spent $8 a chip for one rack in a mixed casino tournament set. Then $15 a chip for one barrel for my top of the set, 43mm chip! I have cappers that cost over $20. And I am nowhere close to being a high roller compared to many others here.
• All this, because I wanted one or two cool sets of chips for about $300 each.

Believe it when people say this hobby is a disease.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

@TX_Golf_N_Poker @BGinGA Is what I sent above reasonable, or do you see a big benefit to dropping the quarters by 25 and moving it either to $1, $5, or $25? I am open on that. Thank you!

Only you can answer that based on your game. Our opinions are based on our experience. Now you need to make your decision and just be happy with it. Tweaking one denom up or down 25 chips is not going to make any material difference.

 

[SixSeven]

What @TX_Golf_N_Poker just said is true!

This is what I would do.

Mirage 39mm Web Mold Cash
$.25 - 150
$1 - 200
$5 - 225
$25 - 25
600 Total Chips

That is one barrel of $1s for up to 10 players, and 7 barrels of $.25c chips. So for the first 7 players, they could get $25 in $.25 & $1's , and the rest get $25 in $1's and $5 for initial buy in. I don't think you need anymore than 200 $1s and for the future as your game grows, you should have more $5's. For rebuys you can do $5 chips. I personally would do the initial buy in break down different as I have mentioned, but I am not an expert as much as @TX_Golf_N_Poker & @BGinGA are.

 

[DaMrkstr]

In that case, I strongly suggest that you do the following to avoid future heartache and EWS. (empty wallet syndrome)

• Order your chips
• Receive your chips and post photos in several appropriate threads.
• Log out of PCF
• LOSE YOUR PASSWORD AND NEVER COME BACK!!!

Otherwise, if you stick around, you will be in the same boat as all of us. I had the exact budget you had when I joined here.

• My first set was within budget.
• My second set was very reasonably priced Tina cards molds, but I decided to purchase enough to host a three table tournament, so went over budget by a couple hundred dollars. I've used these chips once!
• I stuck around and kept admiring all the neat casino sets of real clay Paulson chips.
• I spent a very small amount on some clay chip samples. I loved them!
• I had the opportunity to buy a very reasonable set of clay chips. Not Paulson, but neat old vintage casino chips. When I joined here, I was amazed that some people spent over $1 a chip, and flabbergasted that others were spending $5 a chip and up! That is freaking insane!!!
• So the set mentioned was $700 for 600 chips. Yes, over $1 per chip. I found ways to justify and made the purchase. That's it! I have all the chips I need!
• Fast forward 3 more years to today. I have at least 7 or 8 playable sets. I have racks of other chips for sets that I'm building. I spent $8 a chip for one rack in a mixed casino tournament set. Then $15 a chip for one barrel for my top of the set, 43mm chip! I have cappers that cost over $20. And I am nowhere close to being a high roller compared to many others here.
• All this, because I wanted one or two cool sets of chips for about $300 each.

Believe it when people say this hobby is a disease.

That's amazing! lol. I will say, I know that I will have major regrets if I don't get the Mirage set, and instead get the Empress or whit sands set at a lower price. I just have a hard time justifying the $80 label fee, and I know my wife already thinks this purchase is ridiculous, and doesn't understand why I am not content with my current dice chips I have had for 20 years! But given I know I will regret it, I will prob just suck it up and pay the extra cost for the Mirage, and hope that maybe someone joins and drops the cost down, and will pray my wife doesn't kill me!

I know that tweaking up or down by 25 wont make a huge difference, but if moving that quantity to one of the other denominations is important in order to add more $ to the bank and ensure room for growth, I am down! I just don't see more than $1,000 on the table in my game on any given night.

Thank you @TX_Golf_N_Poker and all! @TX_Golf_N_Poker I'm glad your day job covers this fun addiction!

 

[DaMrkstr]

What @TX_Golf_N_Poker just said is true!

This is what I would do.

Mirage 39mm Web Mold Cash
$.25 - 150
$1 - 200
$5 - 225
$25 - 25
600 Total Chips

That is one barrel of $1s for up to 10 players, and 7 barrels of $.25c chips. So for the first 7 players, they could get $25 in $.25 & $1's , and the rest get $25 in $1's and $5 for initial buy in. I don't think you need anymore than 200 $1s and for the future as your game grows, you should have more $5's. For rebuys you can do $5 chips. I personally would do the initial buy in break down different as I have mentioned, but I am not an expert as much as @TX_Golf_N_Poker & @BGinGA are.

Thank you @SixSeven! I am not against that tweak!