Barrington poker table thread (25 Viewers)

[Dodger]

Finished a little while ago, finally made it back home (tables actually in the office lol). Came out *spectacular.* Broke the table down and did most of the first side by myself, then a few hours into it my buddy who's a IATSE stagehand came over and helped me knock out the rest and put it back together in just over an hour.

Two observations I had that I feel like sharing, to help someone avoid similar issues:
1) The cup holders have waaayyyy too much glue. I mean obscene amounts of glue--only way I was able to pry them off was taking a wallpaper scraper, a hammer, and getting in between the cup holder and the wood. My friend had mentioned a heatgun, but I was worried about melting the pleather on the rail.
2) When you put the rails back on, unless you're planning on painstakingly lining up the screws with the original holes in the rail pieces, put the side rails on before the middle curved piece. My buddy and I had to readjust the first side because if you go around the horn, good chance a few mm off on either rail piece will make the 3rd one stick out past the fold.

Couldn't have done it without my buddy's help and @jcooper911 notes. Your post (from page 2) laying it all out made it infinitely easier than trying to do it freestyle. After doing it myself (with the help of a power drill), you have nothing but my respect for getting this done with a manual screwdriver before 2022. Shoutout to the NYC Barrington Mob!

EDIT: cupholders are missing because there was so much f*****g wood glue. Putting em back in would've ripped the pleather. New ones coming Sunday...

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Nicely done, sir! You’ll be happy with the new cup holders too.

 

[jcooper911]

Looks great @RudysNYC !
totally agree on the too much glue, I think maybe I got lucky with mine as mine ended up ok and now when I play I just put them back in the slots.
Glad the instructions were useful and damn you for having a power drill lol. I love that bright green, pops a little more than my classic forest green. I’m in for the first game

 

[RudysNYC]

I’m in for the first game

Absolutely. I was going to say earlier, when all this mishugas blows over and the dust settles just a bit more we should get a NYC PCF game going. I decided at the time that it was a touch off topic, but I now decide that it's totally relevant because given the nature of this thread (folding tables) and the real estate in NYC (claustrophobic) I'm pretty positive every NYC chipper will come across this thread at one point or another

 

[tabletalker7]

1) The cup holders have waaayyyy too much glue. I mean obscene amounts of glue

EDIT: cupholders are missing because there was so much f*****g wood glue. Putting em back in would've ripped the pleather. New ones coming Sunday...

When I did mine, I used a hair dryer to slowly heat the cupholders. After I got them out, a few more minutes with the hair dryer and all the glue wiped right off (I didn't have a rag so I just used the old felt).

 

[pipdenny]

It looks like TPS is out of that nice blue color that many of you guys used for your tables. It is not even listed on th site.

Is this from casinosupply.com of similar high quality? Anyone buy from this site before?

https://www.casinosupply.com/collec...suited-speed-cloth-sold-per-running-foot-blue

Furthermore, would it be wise to cut the cupholder holes before installing the SSC? That way I can just use an exacto knife to cut out the holes in the SSC after installation, avoiding having to drill through it?

Thanks all!

 

[JZPdub]

It looks like TPS is out of that nice blue color that many of you guys used for your tables. It is not even listed on th site.

Is this from casinosupply.com of similar high quality? Anyone buy from this site before?

https://www.casinosupply.com/collec...suited-speed-cloth-sold-per-running-foot-blue

Furthermore, would it be wise to cut the cupholder holes before installing the SSC? That way I can just use an exacto knife to cut out the holes in the SSC after installation, avoiding having to drill through it?

Thanks all!

So I just re-felted my Barrington table this weekend (pics coming soon) and I cut the cupholders before installing my cloth. I did that because I got a custom cloth (thanks @T_Chan) and was worried that the hole saw would somehow snag and rip the cloth.

I'm glad that I did - my particular hole saw had trouble with the felt and the foam, so I was relieved I was doing it on the old felt, not the new cloth. Cutting out the felt with an exacto knife after re-installing the rail was super easy. Also was able to start the hole with the rail on, but then remove the rail to finish cutting (since I didn't re-screw the rails in after removing the old cupholders).

Downside is that your alignment may be off slightly. For 9 out of 10 holes wasn't a problem (since the original cutout is larger than the new hole), but there was one hole where the alignment was just off , so the cupholder didn't go in right away. Was an easy enough fix - ended up just using a piece of sand paper to sand down the edge that wasn't aligned and after a minute or two was able to fit it in.

 

[Dodger]

So I just re-felted my Barrington table this weekend (pics coming soon) and I cut the cupholders before installing my cloth. I did that because I got a custom cloth (thanks @T_Chan) and was worried that the hole saw would somehow snag and rip the cloth.

I'm glad that I did - my particular hole saw had trouble with the felt and the foam, so I was relieved I was doing it on the old felt, not the new cloth. Cutting out the felt with an exacto knife after re-installing the rail was super easy. Also was able to start the hole with the rail on, but then remove the rail to finish cutting (since I didn't re-screw the rails in after removing the old cupholders).

Downside is that your alignment may be off slightly. For 9 out of 10 holes wasn't a problem (since the original cutout is larger than the new hole), but there was one hole where the alignment was just off , so the cupholder didn't go in right away. Was an easy enough fix - ended up just using a piece of sand paper to sand down the edge that wasn't aligned and after a minute or two was able to fit it in.

Let's see that custom cloth!!!

 

[JZPdub]

Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.

A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
- Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
- Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
- The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
- Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
- Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
- Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).

Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.

Finished Product...

 

[Dodger]

Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.

A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
- Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
- Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
- The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
- Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
- Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
- Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).

Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.

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Finished Product...

View attachment 490687

View attachment 490678

Strong work! Turned out great!

 

[BGinGA]

Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.

A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
- Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
- Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
- The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
- Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
- Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
- Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).

Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.

View attachment 490667

View attachment 490668

View attachment 490669

View attachment 490670

View attachment 490672

View attachment 490673

Finished Product...

View attachment 490687

View attachment 490678

Very nice job!! Felt lines up infinitely better than their original work.

 

[Buge]

Wow! That felt looks awesome! I jumped the gun with SSC. I may have to do a re-refelt
TChan custom cloth?

 

[TonZaga]

Wow! That felt looks awesome! I jumped the gun with SSC. I may have to do a re-refelt
TChan custom cloth?

Buy a second table for tourneys lol

 

[JZPdub]

Wow! That felt looks awesome! I jumped the gun with SSC. I may have to do a re-refelt
TChan custom cloth?

Yep - it's a TChan. Saw he could do a version specifically for Barrington tables (maybe is was on this thread) and spent a bunch of time on the Custom Felt thread seeing what was possible. Inspired me to go for it over the SSC.

 

[Buge]

Buy a second table for tourneys lol

Lol if I ever hosted tournaments that would be a great idea. Usually only run a cash game with 9 guys. Plus the tables are considerably more expensive than when I purchased mine

 

[pipdenny]

Wow that looks great, good job!
I think the fabric aligned perfectly.

 

[pipdenny]

I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem, or if it isn't really a problem at all:

When I push down on the rail in the center of the table, there is a sort of major tilting that happens. The legs are perfectly sturdy, but as I push down on the rail in the center (on either side), the top of the table tilts and flexes as the bracket holding it to the legs slides back and forth.

I hope that made sense.

 

[TunnelMoney]

Found one local for $120 brand new in box. Looking forward to digging into the modifications.

And keep the little tips coming. Like the tip that JZPdub gave about the pipe cutter is brilliant, and one less this I need to go out and get or worry about.

 

[Regularjohn]

has anyone here changed out their speed cloth before? i currently have mine with blue, and wanted to change it to a tan color i think. wasnt sure if refleting for a 2nd time would be too much wear and tear on the table.

 

[TonZaga]

has anyone here changed out their speed cloth before? i currently have mine with blue, and wanted to change it to a tan color i think. wasnt sure if refleting for a 2nd time would be too much wear and tear on the table.

I wouldn't think it would be a problem. May be a good time to replace some of the "foam" (if you can even call it that) across the whole playing surface.

 

[RudysNYC]

I wouldn't think it would be a problem. May be a good time to replace some of the "foam" (if you can even call it that) across the whole playing surface.

GREAT time to replace the foam. When I did my initial refelt I changed out the foam too, from the like 1/16” crap to 1/4” neoprene from a pretty great eBay seller. When I say the difference was night and day, I’m not kidding. You won’t regret changing it if you do @Regularjohn

 

[TunnelMoney]

If replacing the foam to something like a 1/4" Volara, you should only take the new foam to the edge of the rail, correct? Not under it?

Should the new thicker foam go down into the crease/fold in the middle? Or stop so that the thicker foam is only on the top of the table?

 

[TonZaga]

If replacing the foam to something like a 1/4" Volara, you should only take the new foam to the edge of the rail, correct? Not under it?

I would think so. If the original arm rest are going back on, you could even leave it a couple inches from the outside edge as the armrest would cover it

 

[SixSpeedFury]

GREAT time to replace the foam. When I did my initial refelt I changed out the foam too, from the like 1/16” crap to 1/4” neoprene from a pretty great eBay seller. When I say the difference was night and day, I’m not kidding. You won’t regret changing it if you do @Regularjohn

Do you happen to have photos of the foam replacement by any chance?

 

[RudysNYC]

Do you happen to have photos of the foam replacement by any chance?

Of the process? No. Of the after product? Yes can send when I get home

 

[RudysNYC]

found a photo on my phone but it’s not the best to show the upgrade in terms of the foam. To put it in perspective, with the original foam I couldn’t leave my Apache 3800 on it for more than 90 seconds without the imprint lasting for quite a while. With the thicker neoprene, I can leave it on there for a stupid amount of time without it leaving much of a mark and it bounces back very quickly.

Highly recommend you won’t go wrong

 

[justsomedude]

found a photo on my phone but it’s not the best to show the upgrade in terms of the foam. To put it in perspective, with the original foam I couldn’t leave my Apache 3800 on it for more than 90 seconds without the imprint lasting for quite a while. With the thicker neoprene, I can leave it on there for a stupid amount of time without it leaving much of a mark and it bounces back very quickly.

Highly recommend you won’t go wrong

View attachment 499120

Looks good!!

 

[Frogzilla]

If replacing the foam to something like a 1/4" Volara, you should only take the new foam to the edge of the rail, correct? Not under it?

Should the new thicker foam go down into the crease/fold in the middle? Or stop so that the thicker foam is only on the top of the table?

I did:
1) to edge of the rail and not under it. The foam armrests will not sit correctly with larger foam

2) just to the edge of the table, not into the crease

Photo below...I was sloppy with tucking the vinyl on that rail piece but the foam under the playing surface came out really well

 

[Dodger]

found a photo on my phone but it’s not the best to show the upgrade in terms of the foam. To put it in perspective, with the original foam I couldn’t leave my Apache 3800 on it for more than 90 seconds without the imprint lasting for quite a while. With the thicker neoprene, I can leave it on there for a stupid amount of time without it leaving much of a mark and it bounces back very quickly.

Highly recommend you won’t go wrong

View attachment 499120

Only thing left to do is upgrade those cup holders.

 

[BPTDirector]

I know that at one time or another I’ve posted this before but if you are looking for an inexpensive substitute for Volara foam try a product available at swimming pool supply stores named Happy Bottom. I have used it on all my tables and it has held up through seven years of use now. Costs about $12 a table to do.

 

[RudysNYC]

Only thing left to do is upgrade those cup holders.

So unfortunately there was no real avenue for me to hole saw through the plywood, since a) I was doing the upgrades in my office lol and b) I don't have access to a hole saw. I thought I lucked out and found some unicorn cupholders that were deeper than the originals without popping up, but I was sorely mistaken--I mismeasured

If anyone has a line on gold shallow cupholders, I'd pick 10 up in a heartbeat though... Don't think I'll be getting deeper cupholders til the next refelt, and that'll be a while.

EDIT: upgrades not repairs