Leaded chips, you like? (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys, I’m curious your opinion on leaded chips. I’m thinking about building up a set over time with Aztar secondaries just to play around with a leaded set. I don’t have any experience with leaded chips.

I don’t care about the whole heavy metal / toxicity thing.

How do they handle compared to the more modern Paulsons. Are they much more durable? How’s the sound?

Cheers!
 
All of my sets are leaded bar the Noirs,and Sam's Town, never heard of chips being bad for you, but getting onto how they sound to my old ears non-leaded sound duller, leaded got a bit more treble to them. I prefer handling leaded any day.
Durability should be the same depends how much they've been used, being workhorse's in a casino will take its toll.
 
I see you've already seen my post from two years ago. I'll post the link here for others who may want answers to the questions you asked:

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ign-set-to-start-a-set-now.17343/#post-311200

Yes that’s right, I’ve been using the search quite often after getting the chip bug... lol

Are all Aztars leaded? (Indiana, MO, etc). It seems like it may be hard to build a high denomination set of them with lots of 100’s to 1000’s. I guess that’s part of the fun.
 
Are all Aztars leaded? (Indiana, MO, etc). It seems like it may be hard to build a high denomination set of them with lots of 100’s to 1000’s. I guess that’s part of the fun.
Yes, both Casino Aztar sets were made prior to the Paulson formula changes, and are fully leaded.

The Evansville IN set contains six denominations $1 through $500 on the RHC mold, plus an IHC mold $1000 (both primary and secondary sets for all denominations, although the chips in both sets saw casino use except for the secondary $1000s).

The Caruthersville MO set contains five denominations 50c through $100 on the THC mold (primary and secondary sets, with only the primaries seeing casino use plus the secondary $5 chips).

There are quite a few chips from both casinos in circulation -- Jim @TheChipRoom was responsible for bringing both to market -- putting together a decent upper-denom set may be a little difficult and/or expensive depending on which set and condition, but certainly not impossible.
 
You guys think it will be hard to build a high denom set with:

200ish Aztar MO 25 secondaries (this is easy to get)
200ish of Aztar MO 100 primaries (prefer secondary but heard impossible to get)
200ish Aztar Indiana 500 secondaries
200ish Aztar Indiana 1000's secondaries
40-60 5000's (Is there a leaded 5000 somewhere?)

For me the priority is the condition of the chip themselves, less so the design. They all look great to me.
 
You guys think it will be hard to build a high denom set with:

200ish Aztar MO 25 secondaries (this is easy to get)
200ish of Aztar MO 100 primaries (prefer secondary but heard impossible to get)
200ish Aztar Indiana 500 secondaries
200ish Aztar Indiana 1000's secondaries
40-60 5000's (Is there a leaded 5000 somewhere?)

For me the priority is the condition of the chip themselves, less so the design. They all look great to me.

Hard prospect, man. First, as you are aware, you'd be mixing molds, RHC and THC. You'd also be mixing shaped inlays with faux-shaped inlays.

Also conditions. Some you can find mint, the MO Sec $25s and IN Sec $1K for example but not others, like the MO Prim $100s.

The IN Sec $500s are slightly used.
 
Hard prospect, man. First, as you are aware, you'd be mixing molds, RHC and THC. You'd also be mixing shaped inlays with faux-shaped inlays.

Also conditions. Some you can find mint, the MO Sec $25s and IN Sec $1K for example but not others, like the MO Prim $100s.

The IN Sec $500s are slightly used.

Hmmmmm very true indeed.... maybe relabel white and pink Aztars as 500's and 1000's? That color scheme would feel kinda weird tho.
 
As Paulo said, that's a real bad mix of RHC, THC and some hard to find chips and some chips that won't look great together.

The Aztar MO $100s are amongst the top 5 leaded hundos, hard to find in great shape and multiple racks, but not impossible. It took me a year, but now have 4+ racks. Problem is that Aztar MO doesn't have any denoms higher than $100s and I had to create a $500 chip for our game. I will post some pictures of my new completed set in a couple of weeks.

Your alternative solution is the PCAs. Just as awesome as the Aztars (and some people argue even more so), and the set does have shaped inlay $500s. They are expensive, and again hard to find, but not impossible. The hundos are hard to find as well, but can be done.

IMG_9600.jpg

IMG_9613.jpg

I have since sold the primary $100s and the fracs and added a rack of secondary $100s to the set.
 
As Paulo said, that's a real bad mix of RHC, THC and some hard to find chips and some chips that won't look great together.

The Aztar MO $100s are amongst the top 5 leaded hundos, hard to find in great shape and multiple racks, but not impossible. It took me a year, but now have 4+ racks. Problem is that Aztar MO doesn't have any denoms higher than $100s and I had to create a $500 chip for our game. I will post some pictures of my new completed set in a couple of weeks.

Your alternative solution is the PCAs. Just as awesome as the Aztars (and some people argue even more so), and the set does have shaped inlay $500s. They are expensive, and again hard to find, but not impossible. The hundos are hard to find as well, but can be done.

View attachment 265940
View attachment 265941
I have since sold the primary $100s and the fracs and added a rack of secondary $100s to the set.

Ummmm.... more pics please! :nailbite:
 
So I just bought a set of Gulfports which are a low denomination set. I’m trying to figure out how to turn it into a high denomination set. I’m ok with putting some Gear labels over them since it won’t damage anything.

Those 1’s are really beautiful and the star of the set. There are 400 of them and I’d like to maximize the amount in play. My workhorse chips honestly are roughly even between 100’s, 500’s, and 1000’s. The 100’s a little less and 500’s/1000’s more so but not hugely apart. Wondering which denomination do you guys think the white chips are more suitable for? On one hand, a white Cali 100 feels right since it’s a natural color for a 100 chip, but there won’t be as many chips used. A white 1000 chip seems to work as well, since I believe some casinos do use a white 1000 (Aria? I forget). A white 500 seems odd to me.

The red Gulfports I dunno what to do with. It feels weird everywhere except for maybe a 5000? I have seen red 5000’s before I think?

The 25’s are perfect as is.

The 100 Gulfports I love, except I only have 50 of them and from what I know probably impossible to get at least another rack.

Other options would be to build a mixed set like KK suggested above. I think the key is to define the white Gulfports first.

As a reference in the 8 hour 50/100 game I played last week we used up 40 25’s, 180 100’s, 200 500’s, 200 1000’s, and 45 5000’s. This would be considered a crazy night of action for sure. Normally we hardly get to the 5000’s if at all.

So I’m leaning toward making the 400 Gulfport 1’s as the 1000 chip so that on a crazy night they would all get into play without as many 5000’s.

Any advice is appreciated. I do apologize in advance to the purist chippers if they think I’d be butchering this nice set. I do promise sticker overlays only! :tup:
 
Butchering chips and being a chip murderer is OK. They are your chips and you paid dearly for them, so do as you please. Personally, I would never relabel or modify those chips. This is not about ‘grail’ sets or ‘holy’ sets, or untouchable sets. And I am not trying to be a purist, but as a wise man told me recently, chips are meant to be used for different purposes: most of the time we want to put them in play and we should try to do that to even our nicer chips. But it is also OK to keep some incredible chips in the closet and just admire the work of art that they are. And if they are rare and have a history, all the more reason to keep them away from the felt. Again, that’s my opinion. But I am doing the same with my Starlite set, for example, as those chips will always stay in the closet, never be sold and will likely never see the felt. And I have been given some advice on how some of the Starlite chips fit better with a couple of mixed sets I am building, but I am not going to relabel them, mill them, or touch them in any shape or form. Again, that’s me. There are quiet a few chip murderers on this site and they are OK with ‘destroying’ ANY chip :nailbite:.

Given your need/use for lots of high denom chips, I think you should look for alternative options/sets, as opposed to trying to make the GP a high denom set. To me it’s like trying to fit a square peg through a round hole :banghead:.
 
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There quiet a few chip murderers on this site and they are OK with ‘destroying’ ANY chip :D.

As an infamous chip murderer (albeit a mostly undeserved title), I just want to go on record saying there is no way I'd even consider murdering any of GCB chips. And by murder I mean replacing the inlays. As for labels over the existing inlays to create a higher denomination set, no harm in that I suppose, although as @kk405 said, there are likely far better ways to create a high denom set than trying to fit the square peg into the round hole.
 
Butchering chips and being a chip murderer is OK. They are your chips and you paid dearly for them, so do as you please. Personally, I would never relabel or modify those chips. This is not about ‘grail’ sets or ‘holy’ sets, or untouchable sets. And I am not trying to be a purist, but as a wise man told me recently, chips are meant to be used for different purposes: most of the time we want to put them in play and we should try to do that to even our nicer chips. But it is also OK to keep some incredible chips in the closet and just admire the work of art that they are. And if they are rare and have a history, all the more reason to keep them away from the felt. Again, that’s my opinion. But I am doing the same with my Starlite set for example, as those chips will always stay in the closet, never be sold and will likely never see the felt. And I have been given some advice on how some of the Starlite chips fit better with my other sets I am building, but I am not going to relabel them, mill them, or touch them in any shape or form. Again, that’s me. There quiet a few chip murderers on this site and they are OK with ‘destroyuing’ ANY chip :D.

Given your need/use for lots of high denom chips, I think you should look for alternative options/sets, as opposed to trying to make the GP a high denom set. To me it’s like trying to fit a square peg through a round hole :D.

Right on... that’s very true indeed. I know I’ve only been on the forums for like a month but I’ve progressed in my taste incredible fast (some would say too fickle, lol). I think you’re right, maybe this one stays in the closet or we just all play in USD when used... lol.

I wanna feel the buttery smooth leaded chips people keep talking about!
 
So I just bought a set of Gulfports which are a low denomination set. I’m trying to figure out how to turn it into a high denomination set. I’m ok with putting some Gear labels over them since it won’t damage anything.

Those 1’s are really beautiful and the star of the set. There are 400 of them and I’d like to maximize the amount in play. My workhorse chips honestly are roughly even between 100’s, 500’s, and 1000’s. The 100’s a little less and 500’s/1000’s more so but not hugely apart. Wondering which denomination do you guys think the white chips are more suitable for? On one hand, a white Cali 100 feels right since it’s a natural color for a 100 chip, but there won’t be as many chips used. A white 1000 chip seems to work as well, since I believe some casinos do use a white 1000 (Aria? I forget). A white 500 seems odd to me.

The red Gulfports I dunno what to do with. It feels weird everywhere except for maybe a 5000? I have seen red 5000’s before I think?

The 25’s are perfect as is.

The 100 Gulfports I love, except I only have 50 of them and from what I know probably impossible to get at least another rack.

Other options would be to build a mixed set like KK suggested above. I think the key is to define the white Gulfports first.

As a reference in the 8 hour 50/100 game I played last week we used up 40 25’s, 180 100’s, 200 500’s, 200 1000’s, and 45 5000’s. This would be considered a crazy night of action for sure. Normally we hardly get to the 5000’s if at all.

So I’m leaning toward making the 400 Gulfport 1’s as the 1000 chip so that on a crazy night they would all get into play without as many 5000’s.

Any advice is appreciated. I do apologize in advance to the purist chippers if they think I’d be butchering this nice set. I do promise sticker overlays only! :tup:

Agree wholeheartedly with @kk405 and @bentax1978 , although I dispute Dan's claim it's an undeserved title ( :p ).

One of the alternatives you have to to use denoms x 100. So your $1s would be $100 on the table and so on...
 
As an infamous chip murderer (albeit a mostly undeserved title), I just want to go on record saying there is no way I'd even consider murdering any of GCB chips. And by murder I mean replacing the inlays. As for labels over the existing inlays to create a higher denomination set, no harm in that I suppose, although as @kk405 said, there are likely far better ways to create a high denom set than trying to fit the square peg into the round hole.

Funny how I was thinking about you Dan when I wrote that sentence ;)
 
As an infamous chip murderer (albeit a mostly undeserved title), I just want to go on record saying there is no way I'd even consider murdering any of GCB chips. And by murder I mean replacing the inlays. As for labels over the existing inlays to create a higher denomination set, no harm in that I suppose, although as @kk405 said, there are likely far better ways to create a high denom set than trying to fit the square peg into the round hole.
Well your fantastic efforts certainly inspired me to attempt my first chip murder, so it might even be appropriate to crown you the murder king :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:.
 
Not sure I’d be relabelling those gulfports.

As others have said I think you’d be better off keeping them as is and admiring them. You can then buy another set with a breakdown that suits your game a bit better.
 
One more comment about label-over those GCBs: I don't know the exact condition of those chips. Typically, however, it's better to label-over new(er) chips because of the depth of the recess (imo of course). If the chips are worn, you might have issues with spinners and wobbly stacks. Again, not talking specifically about the Gulfport chips as I never saw them in person to asses their condition.
 
And I'd be very comcerned about the labels pulling off the original inlays when removed -- those are older chips with likely water exposure during the hurricane, and not mint chips in pristine condition. Damage potential is real.

I sold my $1s after having second thoughts about re-labelling them as tournament T5000s. Not worth the risk imo.

I'd just use the set for cash, or for either T1-base or T.25 tournaments (by adding quarters), which is typically how I get my cash sets into play (more tourney players than cash players in my poker group).
 
Seems silly to me is to buy one of the most awesome & rare cash sets just to turn it into a tournament set. There are an over abundance of tournament sets/chips out there (yes even leaded) and available at much less cost that you spent on the Gulfports (even if doing full inlay replacements). Just don't see the need to use a fantastic and super rare cash set for this purpose.

While you paid (well) for the Gulfport cash set, you certainly can do whatever you choose to do with them. I have no qualms with chip murder per se' especially if it meets a particular need. The line gets a little fuzzy when it comes to extremely rare chips though. I also have no problem with putting a set like this in the closet and never putting it in play. But if you're going to use them, use them for what they were intended for, a cash set.

GL
 

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