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Murder, (S)he Wrote: The Unofficial Murder Pr0n Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter RocAFella1
- Start date
You can if you want
You are correct sir!
Another work case is milled chips.
When you mill, you expose virgin material and it's often lighter than the rest of the chip that has been exposed to all the oils from all the fingertips.
So you may want to apply before labelling to ensure full coverage.
This is what we post on our FAQ:
If I’m just piling cause chips want a consistent level of oil and as more of a finish I’d do it after. If I was oiling as part of brining chips back from the dead I do it before. But I also go heavy, let them sit several weeks. Remove and rework them in lightly, then labels.
It’s all about the condition and what you are trying to do.
It’s all about the condition and what you are trying to do.
Nanook
Full House
I recognize my work, but not that knife....lol
Nanook
Full House
Recently I bought a rack of chips that someone had murdered and they had done a terrible job. Once I took off the very 1st label I realized that there was this big gash under the label and basically once you notice something, you can't un-notice it....lol DON'T be that guy. Do us all a favor and either do it right or let someone that knows how to do it, do it for you!
I have chips come to me frequently that some PCF member has started and given up on. They almost always do a hack job on them. The sooner you recognize that you will not be able to do an acceptable job on them the better. In the pics below, the PCF member caught on pretty quickly and only damaged a couple barrels before giving up and leaving the murder job to someone more experienced/capable.
Be careful that you do not cut into the chip when you try your hand at murdering. If you just nick the clay under the inlay it is not a big deal, but if you make a deep (ish) cut you will be able to tell after the label is applied. Some might not care, but to me if you butcher the murder job and cut deep into the chip you have basically destroyed the chip. With a deep cut, even with a high quality label on, the cut will be both visible and leave a bump that can be felt. To me, and I am sure many others here, that is just not acceptable.
Here is what I am talking about. 1st pic is a pic of a chip that another member tried to murder. There is just no way to completely cover up that type of cut. All the other pics are of Red Rock $1's that I murdered. They are a great choice for murder as they are both great looking and plentiful at a very reasonable $1/chip. The only caveat is that the murderer needs to know what they are doing.
I have chips come to me frequently that some PCF member has started and given up on. They almost always do a hack job on them. The sooner you recognize that you will not be able to do an acceptable job on them the better. In the pics below, the PCF member caught on pretty quickly and only damaged a couple barrels before giving up and leaving the murder job to someone more experienced/capable.
Be careful that you do not cut into the chip when you try your hand at murdering. If you just nick the clay under the inlay it is not a big deal, but if you make a deep (ish) cut you will be able to tell after the label is applied. Some might not care, but to me if you butcher the murder job and cut deep into the chip you have basically destroyed the chip. With a deep cut, even with a high quality label on, the cut will be both visible and leave a bump that can be felt. To me, and I am sure many others here, that is just not acceptable.
Here is what I am talking about. 1st pic is a pic of a chip that another member tried to murder. There is just no way to completely cover up that type of cut. All the other pics are of Red Rock $1's that I murdered. They are a great choice for murder as they are both great looking and plentiful at a very reasonable $1/chip. The only caveat is that the murderer needs to know what they are doing.
Recently I bought a rack of chips that someone had murdered and they had done a terrible job. Once I took off the very 1st label I realized that there was this big gash under the label and basically once you notice something, you can't un-notice it....lol DON'T be that guy. Do us all a favor and either do it right or let someone that knows how to do it, do it for you!
I have chips come to me frequently that some PCF member has started and given up on. They almost always do a hack job on them. The sooner you recognize that you will not be able to do an acceptable job on them the better. In the pics below, the PCF member caught on pretty quickly and only damaged a couple barrels before giving up and leaving the murder job to someone more experienced/capable.
Be careful that you do not cut into the chip when you try your hand at murdering. If you just nick the clay under the inlay it is not a big deal, but if you make a deep (ish) cut you will be able to tell after the label is applied. Some might not care, but to me if you butcher the murder job and cut deep into the chip you have basically destroyed the chip. With a deep cut, even with a high quality label on, the cut will be both visible and leave a bump that can be felt. To me, and I am sure many others here, that is just not acceptable.
Here is what I am talking about. 1st pic is a pic of a chip that another member tried to murder. There is just no way to completely cover up that type of cut. All the other pics are of Red Rock $1's that I murdered. They are a great choice for murder as they are both great looking and plentiful at a very reasonable $1/chip. The only caveat is that the murderer needs to know what they are doing.
I now fully expect/demand someone conduct an experiment with Murder Repair products to fill botched inlay removal scars.
Maybe one of those sandable epoxies / plastic wood products from the hardware store…
Clear epoxy mixed with clay dust ....
Nanook
Full House
yea, I'm guessing that is the ticket. No doubt, Josh has perfected the method....
Nanook
Full House
Diamond Jacks are not the easiest chip to start on. They certainly are not the most difficult either...They are great though. Yours will look fantastic once done.
The carnage is fascinating and all, but you are required to show pics of the chips post murder job (naked) and the finished product. This is PCF after all...
Has anyone else dealt with paper removal under the inlay, these Sundance $1s have thick paper with 100 years worth of tobacco grease in there. Pretty sure there's also some hooker juice..
Any tips/advice for removing the paper underlayment is greatly appreciated!
I milled my 7/8" papers, worked like a charm compared to manual removal.
Nanook
Full House
haha, yes...
You have just stumbled into murders hell. They are an absolute bitch to do and no one, to my knowledge, has discovered a solvent that works well on them. I have murdered probably 1000ish paper inlay chips and every one was miserable to do. The best solution I have found so far (and it isn't very good at all) is soaking in 70% isopropyl alcohol, scraping, rinse & repeat several times until you are happy with the result. Another member here asked me to try and murder some TRK's for him and they are paper. I did exactly 1 and I think he decided not to proceed. Honestly, I am relieved...
Just so everyone knows what paper looks like vs what Vinyl looks like: The 1st 2 pics are of Vinyl on the left and paper on the right. Once you know, it is VERY obvious. The rest are what the progression looks like on the murder of paper inlay chips = TRK or Paulson - both will be similar:
Pippa
4 of a Kind
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2020
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- 8,679
haha, yes...
You have just stumbled into murders hell. They are an absolute bitch to do and no one, to my knowledge, has discovered a solvent that works well on them. I have murdered probably 1000ish paper inlay chips and every one was miserable to do. The best solution I have found so far (and it isn't very good at all) is soaking in 70% isopropyl alcohol, scraping, rinse & repeat several times until you are happy with the result. Another member here asked me to try and murder some TRK's for him and they are paper. I did exactly 1 and I think he decided not to proceed. Honestly, I am relieved...
Just so everyone knows what paper looks like vs what Vinyl looks like: The 1st 2 pics are of Vinyl on the left and paper on the right. Once you know, it is VERY obvious. The rest are what the progression looks like on the murder of paper inlay chips = TRK or Paulson - both will be similar:
You kill a beaver chip £25??????????
Alright, so I'm pretty much on my own to experiment further and see what works best. I'll give isopropyl a shot, appears that has worked best for most. Thanks for your advice and shared experiences, was really hoping someone has already found the magic recipe.haha, yes...
You have just stumbled into murders hell. They are an absolute bitch to do and no one, to my knowledge, has discovered a solvent that works well on them. I have murdered probably 1000ish paper inlay chips and every one was miserable to do. The best solution I have found so far (and it isn't very good at all) is soaking in 70% isopropyl alcohol, scraping, rinse & repeat several times until you are happy with the result. Another member here asked me to try and murder some TRK's for him and they are paper. I did exactly 1 and I think he decided not to proceed. Honestly, I am relieved...
Just so everyone knows what paper looks like vs what Vinyl looks like: The 1st 2 pics are of Vinyl on the left and paper on the right. Once you know, it is VERY obvious. The rest are what the progression looks like on the murder of paper inlay chips = TRK or Paulson - both will be similar:
Nanook
Full House
yea, sorry....
I know, but I just do what I am told.
Pippa
4 of a Kind
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2020
- Messages
- 6,527
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- 8,679
Nanook
Full House
No and they were not mineNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
do you have more beaver?????
Besides sending them to us to scrape?
For realz tho...anything with paper automatically goes to the high end of our scale.
Shaped paper and TRK we charge the most for...they can be literally painful to do well.
I have 3 words for you...Labor of Love.
Judging from Nanook's response, our methods are different.
We use no chemicals, and we have a consistent method that requires 4 passes at the chip. (and no we won't detail it, if you are good at something never do it for free...)
Pass 1 - Remove plastic outer layer.
Pass 2 - Scrape off the paper.
Pass 3 - Scrape off the glue.
Pass 4 - Clean the chip.
We listen to a LOT of podcasts to the sound of scraping chips...
Podcasts are by go to when milling..... This is why we are buds.
Paper inlays = scrapefest
MichaelBubly
Flush
First attempt at inlay removal was more or less a success!
Nice! My first attempt involved a missing chunk of finger!
MichaelBubly
Flush
First chip I had a pretty close call with the exacto knife. Had to check if I filleted my finger or not. Thankfully no harm done and revised my approach to not cut towards my finger.
Let me know if you want a barrel of these that are already murdered.
dmoney
Full House
I’m sometimes left with a VERY thin strip of inlay after milling that’s quite difficult to remove. Looks like the manual method leaves some residue behind also?
I think it’ll be imperceptible after I put the new label in anyway, and can barely be seen from alternate angles as-is.
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