Thanks for the heads up! I will be careful not to put any on the outer rim of the chip.Just be very careful not to get any NPR on the arc yellow. It will react quite noticeably.
Thanks for the heads up! I will be careful not to put any on the outer rim of the chip.Just be very careful not to get any NPR on the arc yellow. It will react quite noticeably.
Are those Argosy $5’s? The hotstamp over a label?Murder success!! Turns out to be vinyl labels but they dont pop like horseshoe cincy so more effort was needed.
Took me 10mins/chip at the start and whittled my timing down to 3min/chip toward the end Thanks all for the helpful advice!
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Are those Argosy $5’s? The hotstamp over a label?
Glad to hear Horseshoe Cinci’s are relatively easy (80 on the way to be murdered).
JACK’s were a dream... to murder
I’ve never handled them .Yes Argosy $5s! Any idea if they are leaded? Saw some Argosy $25s for sale in classified and they were said to be leaded. They do feel a tad heavier than the horseshoe cincy $5s post removal.
4 barrels you should be done in no time! Should probably take about 2mins/chip once you get the hang of it
Damn UB $25s are sweet and go for a great price! So are the Jack snappers. You sound experienced horseshoes should be a breeze for youI’ve never handled them .
The Argosy $1’s and $5’s are sweet though!
My current victim count is 600 (200 SY $1’s, 200 UB 25’s & 200 JACK Snappers)
The SY and UB’s were jerks, but them JACKS... I have them at about 1min/chip
They are! I’ve loved them since I first joined in ‘16 and had to get’em somehowDamn UB $25s are sweet and go for a great price! So are the Jack snappers. You sound experienced horseshoes should be a breeze for you
Produced by Paulson in 1996 using leaded materials, the Argosy chips were never used and returned to the factory for cancellation by order of the Indiana Gaming Commission (the chips failed to meet regulatory requirements).Argosy $5s! Any idea if they are leaded? Saw some Argosy $25s for sale in classified and they were said to be leaded.
Maybe try a different brand of NANPR. I noticed a big difference in both effectiveness and degree of discoloration.Has anyone had a success with a solvent other than non-acetone nail polish remover? I’m having a particularly tough time with some ESPT T25s ... for some reason the inlays seem to be extremely difficult to get off, the nail polish remover doesn’t work great, and discoloration is an issue.
Thanks. Anyone have any recommendations for NANPR in the U.S.? I’ve been using Target brand.Maybe try a different brand of NANPR. I noticed a big difference in both effectiveness and degree of discoloration.
Thanks. Anyone have any recommendations for NANPR in the U.S.? I’ve been using Target brand.
Having just acquired 2 racks of these for a relabel project, I would be interested In the answer as well.Has anyone had a success with a solvent other than non-acetone nail polish remover? I’m having a particularly tough time with some ESPT T25s ... for some reason the inlays seem to be extremely difficult to get off, the nail polish remover doesn’t work great, and discoloration is an issue.
I’m going to try other varieties, and I’ll let you know. Good luck in any event. Those are the only ones that have given me real trouble.Having just acquired 2 racks of these for a relabel project, I would be interested In the answer as well.
Sorry if I missed it somewhere, whats "your" method, and what is different?Still fine with „my“ method. Did 100 chips today. 20 to go.
I didn’t want to say that I did invent something, just that I like in which speed, structure and accuracy I am able to replace them.Sorry if I missed it somewhere, whats "your" method, and what is different?
Cool. I'm always looking for the latest tricks that people come up with which is why I was asking.I didn’t want to say that I did invent something, just that I like in which speed, structure and accuracy I am able to replace them.
I found those chips very challenging.
Lot of great information here guys. I'm really thinking about this as a possibility down the road for a custom set. Any suggestions on which type of label to get to fill the recess? Once relabeled is it obvious that it's been murdered? I'm just curious about the relabeling process. If there's another thread for that feel free to point me in that direction. Thanks!
Once relabeled is it obvious that it's been murdered? I'm just curious about the relabeling process. If there's another thread for that feel free to point me in that direction. Thanks!
So I'm assuming this is the better option for labeled Paulson's and not milling like you would do for say hot stamps? I'm just wondering if milling might be the more efficient option.
Looks great! I've been trying to decide how I want to do it. I've done milling before but it's been a minute. What would you say the negative is of milling vs inlay removal?I am milling my inlaid chips. I have 1100 chips and the thought of doing them all by hand is insane and the cost to have someone else do it would double the cost of the set at least.
I finished the first rack last night and here is the first 20 labeled.
it took about an hour to do the mill the entire rack. Going forward that time will be less now that I found a system.
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Looks great! I've been trying to decide how I want to do it. I've done milling before but it's been a minute. What would you say the negative is of milling vs inlay removal?
Once you get it so it's safely inside of every ring placement, and it's near center, lock that crap in and don't move it. Fighting a perfect center is like herding cats.As @Josh Kifer told me when I asked him about milling the set you will still need to scrape some of the chips along the very edge because not every chip is perfectly centered.
also it took me a long time to get the jig centered and leveled. It is still ever so slightly off but I don’t to chance making it worse.
Now that I have it set it is going quickly and I am happy with the results.