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Paulson: Full label replacement tutorial thread (2 Viewers)

Every time I come back to this thread I realize how difficult it is to remove an inlay without instructions.
The next thing is that I always feel kind of sick seeing all these chips for 1,2,3,4,5 or like 10$ even more without labels looking quite „naked and cheap“, BUT when I see what you did with all these murdered chips I feel like dancing.*

Thanks for sharing!

*Where is the .gif button?
 
Okay, this thread is crazy long, is there a consensus on a post in it or video that is the best method? I would imagine soaking in hot water would help, or no?
 
I'm starting on my first murder project with LL and HSI. I'm wondering if you guys clean the recess area after removing the label? This is a painstaking, long process so I'm trying not to waste any time here. Here's a few pictures of mine that makes me wonder if I should do further cleaning:
photo_2021-06-16_11-16-40.jpg
photo_2021-06-16_11-16-36.jpg
photo_2021-06-16_11-16-31.jpg


The area is anything but flat anyways, so I'm not sure if cleaning has any purpose. I'm using Q-tips when applying the NANP on the labels, and if I use NANP on the chip, there's quite a lot of color transfer to the q-tip so it doesn't seem like something I should unnecessary.
These are new LL $25s btw. The used HSI labels is more "plastic-y" or "rubber-y" and comes off more cleanly.

Edit: I notice some "chip crumbs" in the pictures, those will be brushed off before applying labels of course.
 
Rakrul said:
I'm starting on my first murder project with LL and HSI. I'm wondering if you guys clean the recess area after removing the label? This is a painstaking, long process so I'm trying not to waste any time here. Here's a few pictures of mine that makes me wonder if I should do further cleaning:

The area is anything but flat anyways, so I'm not sure if cleaning has any purpose. I'm using Q-tips when applying the NANP on the labels, and if I use NANP on the chip, there's quite a lot of color transfer to the q-tip so it doesn't seem like something I should unnecessary.
These are new LL $25s btw. The used HSI labels is more "plastic-y" or "rubber-y" and comes off more cleanly.

Edit: I notice some "chip crumbs" in the pictures, those will be brushed off before applying labels of course.
Click to expand...
Just rinse in water to remove any NANPR and scrape the surface flat with flat blade on xacto knife
 
PokerDots said:
Just rinse in water to remove any NANPR and scrape the surface flat with flat blade on xacto knife
Click to expand...
Thanks. I know what is usually done, I'm asking if it's really necessary. :) Washing means oiling afterwards, and I'm hoping to skip all 3 steps. The NANPR pretty much evaporates as I'm looking at it, so I can't imagine it will cause any issues with the new label. And the residue is minute compared to the grooves and unevenness already there which is why I'm thinking I don't need to do any scraping. Also, noone resells xacto knives here. I'm sure I can find some alternatives, but for now I'm using the cheapest box-cutter known to man. ;)
 
Doesnt affect much, you can skip rinsing if you want. Usu I just dip the chips in water and wipe, kinda like wiping factory chip dust away at the same time as well and no oiling needed

If you only murder a couple that’s fine, if you’re murdering racks on racks I’d say its a worthwhile investment on the off chance one turns badly. I can mail you an xacto knife for a couple of bucks if you want they’re really cheap here :)
 
Just make sure the labels will sit neatly when applied. Do some testing with some labels you have, and feel/look at them to check if they are even or not.

What I noticed when there were still residue left on the chip, is that it would be very noticeable after application of labels, but whether or not you can feel it depends how much residue there actually is, and that's hard to see from the pictures.
 
I usually don't worry about bits of leftover stray fibres or epoxy in the middle of the recess, but I remove as much as I can on the edge. This is because the new label will probably take up ever so slightly less room than the original inlay, and an unclean edge may be noticeable.
 
Rakrul said:
I'm starting on my first murder project with LL and HSI. I'm wondering if you guys clean the recess area after removing the label? This is a painstaking, long process so I'm trying not to waste any time here. Here's a few pictures of mine that makes me wonder if I should do further cleaning:
View attachment 720364View attachment 720365View attachment 720366

The area is anything but flat anyways, so I'm not sure if cleaning has any purpose. I'm using Q-tips when applying the NANP on the labels, and if I use NANP on the chip, there's quite a lot of color transfer to the q-tip so it doesn't seem like something I should unnecessary.
These are new LL $25s btw. The used HSI labels is more "plastic-y" or "rubber-y" and comes off more cleanly.

Edit: I notice some "chip crumbs" in the pictures, those will be brushed off before applying labels of course.
Click to expand...
I normally wash/magic eraser the chip after removing the inlay, this help removes residue. I then oil the chip, i have slso found the oil loosens and helps remove any residue (after oiling i wipe the inlay area to help remove excess oil).

Grant
 
allforcharity said:
I usually don't worry about bits of leftover stray fibres or epoxy in the middle of the recess, but I remove as much as I can on the edge. This is because the new label will probably take up ever so slightly less room than the original inlay, and an unclean edge may be noticeable.
Click to expand...
Also a very good point. If there's leftover inlay stuff along the edges of the recess, it will most likely be visible after placing a new label.
 
Marius L said:
Also a very good point. If there's leftover inlay stuff along the edges of the recess, it will most likely be visible after placing a new label.
Click to expand...
Depending on what label you are using on the chips any leftover inlay will result in lumps/unevenness in the final product. Any scratches,etc won't show (no need to press the label down when placing it, the glue is very hard, lay it gently to start), but anything on top of the surface will show through in most labels (matte/textured laminated seem to be the most forgiving).
 
My first murder project too, with HSI $5.
It’s been easier than I thought, thank you all for the tips.

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I used a Non Acetone Nail Polish Remover and it works great!
4.jpg
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Very happy with the result. 120 chips approx 3 hours with the help of my wife.
IMG_3986.jpg
 

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grantc54 said:
Should work like a charm, I've done a few of the AS $100. Doesnt need to be on very long with these chips (20 seconds).

Edit: may even be less
Click to expand...
Less than 20 seconds for a professional murderer
 
Don Clay said:
Less than 20 seconds for a professional murderer
Click to expand...
Lol, was referring to the time you need the Non-Acetone nail polish nemover on. The inlays come off in one piece very quickly after application. Some chips it takes 45 seconds or so, these I think 10-15 seconds.
 
First attempt, part 2.
IMG_20211106_151134.jpg


I think the result's correct, but without this thread, it wouldn't though.

A huge thanks to all contributors!

Final result to be posted in a few days!

Already considering removing inlays of my AS snappers rack!

I know, I'm crazy.
 
grantc54 said:
Lol, was referring to the time you need the Non-Acetone nail polish nemover on. The inlays come off in one piece very quickly after application. Some chips it takes 45 seconds or so, these I think 10-15 seconds.
Click to expand...
It all comes down to how the solvent reacts with the adhesive and if it is getting to the adhesive or not.

Different chips react VERY differently.

I have done thousands of chips now and as a general rule < 1 minute is not going to do it.

2 tricks I've learned & I'll share:
- if they aren't coming off all in 1 piece and pretty easily the solution is almost always more solvent (usually Non Acetone Nail Polish Remover -NANPR) and or more time with the solvent on there.
- use an eye dropper (not a Q-Tip) to apply the solvent. A couple reasons for this.... it makes it easy to keep all the solvent inside the recess and off the rim of the chip. That way you don't run the risk of staining the visible rim of the chip. It is also faster and wastes nothing.
 
Nanook said:
It all comes down to how the solvent reacts with the adhesive and if it is getting to the adhesive or not.

Different chips react VERY differently.

I have done thousands of chips now and as a general rule < 1 minute is not going to do it.

2 tricks I've learned & I'll share:
- if they aren't coming off all in 1 piece and pretty easily the solution is almost always more solvent (usually Non Acetone Nail Polish Remover -NANPR) and or more time with the solvent on there.
- use an eye dropper (not a Q-Tip) to apply the solvent. A couple reasons for this.... it makes it easy to keep all the solvent inside the recess and off the rim of the chip. That way you don't run the risk of staining the visible rim of the chip. It is also faster and wastes nothing.
Click to expand...
Agreed on eye dropper, I started using an eye dropper when is started doing this a few years ago.

I find most chips for me is around 30 seconds. I have also fond that more time isn't always best, not sure if the NANPR loses strength over time.

No amount of time helps some chips. Paradice $25 for example, always a pain for me.
 
grantc54 said:
Agreed on eye dropper, I started using an eye dropper when is started doing this a few years ago.

I find most chips for me is around 30 seconds. I have also fond that more time isn't always best, not sure if the NANPR loses strength over time.

No amount of time helps some chips. Paradice $25 for example, always a pain for me.
Click to expand...
Try high proof 80% plus ethyl alcohol.
NPR you have to be extra careful
The alcohol seems to work as good or better on some And doesn’t discolor the chip if it goes over the edge for those chips that need it. The Jack $1s I have are sweet. No solvents needed they pop off 95%
 
A few questions:

1. Murder = using nail polish or alcohol + some sort of blade to cut/scrape out an inlay or label? I skimmed a few of the initial pages, and the fastest someone can murder a chip is ~3 min? Has this been beat?

2. Mill = using a drillbit to remove an inlay/label and most likely taking part of the clay poker chip material with it? How quickly can this be done per chip?

I had no idea this could was so time consuming. Those of you with custom sets with your own hands - BRAVO!!
 
khp said:
A few questions:

1. Murder = using nail polish or alcohol + some sort of blade to cut/scrape out an inlay or label? I skimmed a few of the initial pages, and the fastest someone can murder a chip is ~3 min? Has this been beat?

2. Mill = using a drillbit to remove an inlay/label and most likely taking part of the clay poker chip material with it? How quickly can this be done per chip?

I had no idea this could was so time consuming. Those of you with custom sets with your own hands - BRAVO!!
Click to expand...
Yeah, it’s not something you are gonna crank out in a day. It’s a process, and can be daunting when you first start out. But knowing that I put in the work on my chip set makes it very rewarding.
D0131E12-9A8B-4A8E-B75B-B5E3463DC0EF.jpeg
 
khp said:
A few questions:

1. Murder = using nail polish or alcohol + some sort of blade to cut/scrape out an inlay or label? I skimmed a few of the initial pages, and the fastest someone can murder a chip is ~3 min? Has this been beat?

2. Mill = using a drillbit to remove an inlay/label and most likely taking part of the clay poker chip material with it? How quickly can this be done per chip?

I had no idea this could was so time consuming. Those of you with custom sets with your own hands - BRAVO!!
Click to expand...
Murder somehow has come to mean inlay removal, but IMHO that's a poor use of jargon. I consider both inlay removal and milling to constitute murder, i.e. the destruction of a perfectly good chip to suit one's own ends (however useful or justified it might be).

Inlay removal with solvent and blades can only be done on chips with inlays, of course. Milling can be done on chips with inlays in order to save time and effort, but it's most often used on chips with hotstamps rather than inlays. The definitive guide to milling can be found here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-setup-tutorial-with-details-and-links.55889/ - be sure to read the discussion thread to see other people's ideas on how to get it done.
 

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