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Paulson: Full label replacement tutorial thread (5 Viewers)

If the murder process leaves divots in the clay, I recommend using the thickest textured laminates feasible. Thin glossy labels will show every imperfection.
 
Taghkanic said:
If the murder process leaves divots in the clay, I recommend using the thickest textured laminates feasible. Thin glossy labels will show every imperfection.
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Thats helpful, deal. These have been a fistfight, @Wifey you werent kidding. Too late to overlabel!
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Wifey said:
Three words.
Labour.Of.Love

So glad to see so much progress!
Do you have a favourite podcast to listen to while slaving away?
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Ha, yup, itll be a fun story. I tried the Ultrasonic for the first time after putting the pup down for a nap and she HATED it, so I'm gonna wait a while and try again once shes on a walk.

I just finished up Talking Sopranos, two of the lead actors watched and walked through each episode, otherwise just general poker strategy talk. Picking up a glider in the gulf stream tomorrow actually so Ive got some long podcasts downloaded and ready.
 
Taghkanic said:
If the murder process leaves divots in the clay, I recommend using the thickest textured laminates feasible. Thin glossy labels will show every imperfection.
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Something tells me the technique lacks refinement if there's always divots in the clay face. I would slow down a bit, remove the laminate first, then tackle the (vinyl) label second. Trying to take everything off at once risks damage to the chip if done too quickly or without due care.
 
allforcharity said:
Something tells me the technique lacks refinement if there's always divots in the clay face. I would slow down a bit, remove the laminate first, then tackle the (vinyl) label second. Trying to take everything off at once risks damage to the chip if done too quickly or without due care.
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Didn’t say always. Just saying that if your chips have more than an occasionsl flaw, thinner material is going to show them all.

(And as far as everything coming off all at once, in my experience this is rare. Depends on the chip type; I only recall doing one barrel—of yellow RPC 48mms—where they all came up easily.)
 
allforcharity said:
Something tells me the technique lacks refinement if there's always divots in the clay face. I would slow down a bit, remove the laminate first, then tackle the (vinyl) label second. Trying to take everything off at once risks damage to the chip if done too quickly or without due care.
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my technique lacks all refinement, started with a hammer and chisel and have slowly improved my methods.
 
Is there a brand nail polish you recommend? Also I’ll be doing this for the first time on Paris $2s and SY $2s as well. Any issues or strategies that differ with those chips? Problematic? Easy? Let me know what I’m getting into here. Understand the process but I’ve not tried these chips yet. Thx

Just mock ups below. Got the new labels in this week.
 

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OneGearManySpeeds said:
Is there a brand nail polish you recommend? Also I’ll be doing this for the first time on Paris $2s and SY $2s as well. Any issues or strategies that differ with those chips? Problematic? Easy? Let me know what I’m getting into here. Understand the process but I’ve not tried these chips yet. Thx

Just mock ups below. Got the new labels in this week.
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Not answering your question but it is relabelled or overlabelled?
 
OneGearManySpeeds said:
Is there a brand nail polish you recommend? Also I’ll be doing this for the first time on Paris $2s and SY $2s as well. Any issues or strategies that differ with those chips? Problematic? Easy? Let me know what I’m getting into here. Understand the process but I’ve not tried these chips yet. Thx

Just mock ups below. Got the new labels in this week.
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No "one size fits all" solution to murdering poker chips. Lots of variation of how they go. Paris are easier than the SY $2's. Neither one is the easiest, but neither one is the hardest either. You need to have a different scale for Vinyl and Paper inlays as paper take roughly 5x the time. For a vinyl only scale of 1 = easiest and 10 hardest, I would say Paris are maybe a 4 and the SY are maybe a 5 or 6. Both somewhere in the middle/average(ish) difficulty.

If you run into trouble, PM me. Maybe I can help with some advice
 
Nanook said:
Not to be a bragger, but I think KNOW I could have done a better job on those...
These used to be the same Isle of Capri Roulettes
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You definitely would've done a better job, this was my first rack ever and I was using a hammer and chisel I found in a cave.

You would've done it better but it would've tripled the cost of the rack, I'm very happy with my chips.
 
Nanook said:
No "one size fits all" solution to murdering poker chips. Lots of variation of how they go. Paris are easier than the SY $2's. Neither one is the easiest, but neither one is the hardest either. You need to have a different scale for Vinyl and Paper inlays as paper take roughly 5x the time. For a vinyl only scale of 1 = easiest and 10 hardest, I would say Paris are maybe a 4 and the SY are maybe a 5 or 6. Both somewhere in the middle/average(ish) difficulty.

If you run into trouble, PM me. Maybe I can help with some advice
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Thank you. Help me pick out some nail polish remover @Nanook is there a brand that’s best?
 
OneGearManySpeeds said:
Oh ya, should have specified. I’ll be murdering these chips. 4 racks of them. And fresh new gear labels.
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4 racks may take some time, and can be hard on the hands. Your goal should be 1-2 barrels per day.

Almost any non-acetone nail polish remover will do. I use the local drug store house brand. Works fine.

I'm pretty sure all of your chips have vinyl labels, so it should go smoothly IF you have no troubles with the upper laminate layer. The only times vinyl label removal turned into a nightmare were when the laminate kept ripping into small pieces rather than come off as a whole or really big chunks.
 
allforcharity said:
Almost any non-acetone nail polish remover will do. I use the local drug store house brand. Works fine.
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In my experience non-acetone nail polish removers can vary significantly in strength. Some are too strong, and some aren't strong enough. Definitely do some testing before accidentally damaging your chips.
 
OneGearManySpeeds said:
.....Help me pick out some nail polish remover @Nanook is there a brand that’s best?
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Everyone thinks that there should be one best NANPR, but it just isn't that easy.

Because of this:
grantc54 said:
In my experience non-acetone nail polish removers can vary significantly in strength. Some are too strong, and some aren't strong enough.......
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I said this:
Nanook said:
No "one size fits all" solution to murdering poker chips. Lots of variation of how they go......
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You just have to experiment with different NANPR and try different ones until you find something that works well enough for whatever chips you are trying to murder.

I know that it doesn’t seem to make a lot of sense, but it's just the way it is. The issue is that some chips are old and some are new and the chip compositions have changed over time. Some colors bleed and some don't. Some chips are softer and others are harder. I am about 99% sure they have also changed adhesives and vinyls over time too so you have all this different stuff going on. Whatever the active solvent is can be much stronger or weaker depending on the NANPR & for it to work best it needs to melt the adhesive & you need to get that label off before it dries again. If you try and remove the vinyl before the solvent has done it's job you will struggle & if you wait too long it won't go well either. You have to get the soak time right for that chip and solvent to get the best results.

If I could just give you a "best NANPR" I would happily do so, but it doesn't work that way. Sorry....
 
Nanook said:
Everyone thinks that there should be one best NANPR, but it just isn't that easy.

Because of this:


I said this:


You just have to experiment with different NANPR and try different ones until you find something that works well enough for whatever chips you are trying to murder.

I know that it doesn’t seem to make a lot of sense, but it's just the way it is. The issue is that some chips are old and some are new and the chip compositions have changed over time. Some colors bleed and some don't. Some chips are softer and others are harder. I am about 99% sure they have also changed adhesives and vinyls over time too so you have all this different stuff going on. Whatever the active solvent is can be much stronger or weaker depending on the NANPR & for it to work best it needs to melt the adhesive & you need to get that label off before it dries again. If you try and remove the vinyl before the solvent has done it's job you will struggle & if you wait too long it won't go well either. You have to get the soak time right for that chip and solvent to get the best results.

If I could just give you a "best NANPR" I would happily do so, but it doesn't work that way. Sorry....
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No worries. I plan to head to Walgreens tonight and pick up one or two and test on both the Paris and the Santa Ysabel. Fingers crossed. Thx.
 
grantc54 said:
In my experience non-acetone nail polish removers can vary significantly in strength. Some are too strong, and some aren't strong enough. Definitely do some testing before accidentally damaging your chips.
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For the fellow Canucks out there I've tried the brands available from Shoppers Drug Mart and Pharmasave without problems. I don't know why they feel they need dyes in them, I'd rather have something clear.
 
I went to Walgreens and they had a ton of supplies. But completely out of non acetone. Is this a protected or controlled substance like Sudafed?

Went to meijer and got these two. One has coconut scent (sigh). I’ll test them out. Thx.
 

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OneGearManySpeeds said:
I went to Walgreens and they had a ton of supplies. But completely out of non acetone. Is this a protected or controlled substance like Sudafed?
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So this is yet another reason to make a "1 size fits all" recommendation. A few years ago when I first started, Walgreens NANPR was sort of my go to, but then I often found them to be out of stock. I went to Walmart and Target and tried every brand they had including the Cutex that you show. The Cutex will work well on some chips, but on others it is not all that effective as the solvent that attacks the adhesive is not as strong. During Covid Walgreens seemed to be constantly out and eventually they told me that they could no longer get the same NANPR that I had 1st used from them. Eventually they got something else from a different supplier.

OneGearManySpeeds said:
Went to meijer and got these two. One has coconut scent (sigh). I’ll test them out. Thx.
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I am 95% certain that the one you have that is branded as StudioMPro is made be someone else and rebranded & sold with many other names on it. If I am right, it doesn't really smell like coconut, but is much stronger and will evaporate quite quickly. It usually works, but be careful and do not let it sit too long. It can melt chips and discolor some colors badly almost immediately.
 
upNdown said:
To be fair, you’re probably not their target consumer.
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Well, why not? There should be a section in stores with:
- non-acetone nail polish remover
- X-acto knives and refills
- small box cutters
- needle nose pliers
- small dropper bottles and cotton swabs
- various smaller and larger plastic containers to hold solvents and rinse water
- all conveniently next to each other

Might as well add:
- ultrasonic cleaner 6L capacity
- non-TSP TSP 1 and 4 lb.
- distilled water
- measuring spoons
- plastic water pitcher 3L
- salad spinners
- dish gloves
- unscented mineral oil
- j-cloths
- towels/absorbent linens
 
I did a couple hundred Paris $1 with the Target house brand (Up and Up) nail polish remover. About 1 in 10 inlays peeled off easily, vinyl and all, in one piece, no npr needed. With the majority of the chips, the laminate came off but the vinyl stayed. I flooded the recess with nail polish remover and waited 30 seconds, the vinyl came off easy.
 
Sorry if it's not the good place. But how easily do the gearlabels can be removed in an overlabel project? I saw this info once but can't seem to find it again.
 
Lunettesman said:
Sorry if it's not the good place. But how easily do the gearlabels can be removed in an overlabel project? I saw this info once but can't seem to find it again.
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Gears arnt too bad. Sometimes they come off easy, sometimes they cure pretty well and need a good peeling. But vinyl is always more forgiving than paper.
 

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