Post mockups for fun/science? (10 Viewers)

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Here's another option for the hundo. However, this is now a Level 11 and runs $5.30 per chip, vs $4.02 for the other version. I actually WANT some $100 chips so this may or may not be feasible. To get this one, I removed the base color of the green nickel, and only used the base Imperial Blue from the quarter, plus the base colors of the $1, $5 and $20. I also rearranged the order of the colors to put colors together that looked better. It probably is a better looking chip, but much more expensive now.

 

[Machine]

Here's another option for the hundo. However, this is now a Level 11 and runs $5.30 per chip, vs $4.02 for the other version. I actually WANT some $100 chips so this may or may not be feasible. To get this one, I removed the base color of the green nickel, and only used the base Imperial Blue from the quarter, plus the base colors of the $1, $5 and $20. I also rearranged the order of the colors to put colors together that looked better. It probably is a better looking chip, but much more expensive now.

View attachment 1073170

That would make a decent Hundo, I prefer white hundos, the bright white.
I almost like your 500, the blue yellow and purple, but the tiger clashes too hard.

I agree with @chipinla, you should start with a core, the base colors for 1, 5, 20; by doing this you are limiting the endless back and forth with inserts and color jumps.

Blue is great for a 1 and its my preference, yellow would be better on the .25 or 5 (die hard Cali fan here).

Every mock you posted for the 5 was red, start here:

.25, 1, 5, 20

Play with 4 chips base colors, these are going to see the most play. Red seems to be your goto on the 5, build around that, use red as your anchor. Most people like high contrast, swap in variants on the colors, you're 500 was light blue but if you like that better than the DG Peacock then the 1 will see a lot of play and the 500 'never' so its not advantageous to 'burn' the light blue if you like it enough.

for the red 5 I would stay away from insert colors for blue or purple (in this example). The blue / yellow / purple combo is nice, and you could vary DG Yellow on the blue and get away with it.

Your inserts were way too busy, and people say progression but really it a flow, significantly different is fine but trimoon on a 5 and 314 or 414 on the 1 just feels wrong. Its hard to get away with tri-moons on the 5, it can be done!

Focus on base color first. Also if you narrow down a mold, that will give you a timeline, you don't have to have it done tomorrow.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think you may have missed some of my requirements and I'm having trouble understanding a few of your comments.

That would make a decent Hundo, I prefer white hundos, the bright white.

I'm avoiding white. It's one of my least favorite base colors. Red 5 and Black 100 are absolutes. Also Lavender $20.

I almost like your 500, the blue yellow and purple, but the tiger clashes too hard.

I'll try a few other colors in place of the DG Tiger and see if I like something else better. Any specific suggestions?

I agree with @chipinla, you should start with a core, the base colors for 1, 5, 20; by doing this you are limiting the endless back and forth with inserts and color jumps.

I've been pretty set. If you look at my first post, then my most recent, I've only gone back and forth with the $1. I'm pretty happy now with the yellow $1.

Blue is great for a 1 and its my preference, yellow would be better on the .25 or 5 (die hard Cali fan here).

Every mock you posted for the 5 was red, start here:

.25, 1, 5, 20

View attachment 1073183

I love my imperial blue/pink quarter pie for 25 cents. I haven't changed it since the beginning. I don't like darker shades of purple on the $20 as they can be too close to the black on the $100. I made that mistake on another set and had to have all the darker purple chips remade with a lavender base.

Play with 4 chips base colors, these are going to see the most play. Red seems to be your goto on the 5, build around that, use red as your anchor. Most people like high contrast, swap in variants on the colors, you're 500 was light blue but if you like that better than the DG Peacock then the 1 will see a lot of play and the 500 'never' so its not advantageous to 'burn' the light blue if you like it enough.

Original $500 was yellow. The light blue was a necessary change after I went with a yellow $1. Base colors have been set from the beginning on everything else below the $500.

for the red 5 I would stay away from insert colors for blue or purple (in this example). The blue / yellow / purple combo is nice, and you could vary DG Yellow on the blue and get away with it.

$5 hasn't changed at all since the beginning other than going from mandarin red to retro red. Spots have been DG green and DG saturn. I'm pretty happy with that combination and with the 3D14 spots.

Your inserts were way too busy, and people say progression but really it a flow, significantly different is fine but trimoon on a 5 and 314 or 414 on the 1 just feels wrong. Its hard to get away with tri-moons on the 5, it can be done!

Tri-moon has been on the $1 since the beginning and hasn't changed. Only the base colors have changed.

Focus on base color first. Also if you narrow down a mold, that will give you a timeline, you don't have to have it done tomorrow.

Base colors are pretty set. Mold is set on Circle Square and has been from the beginning. Spot designs and spot colors are all that are still being tweaked, and only on the highest denoms. Unless I decide for some reason to start all over from scratch, which is possible, but not too likely. Other than a few minor tweaks and settling on a design for the hundo (but not changing the base color) I'm pretty happy with this today. Who knows what I may decide to change tomorrow.

I'm not in a huge hurry and I only started this design about 24 hours ago. For such a short period of time I think it's a pretty solid design, and it makes me smile to look at it. I'll continue to listen to suggestions and try out different tweaks to see if I like them. Eventually I'll take my design to a personal thread and add on the inlay designs. All along the process I'll continue to invite suggestions and critiques. Just because I may not like a particular suggestion today doesn't mean I don't appreciate all of them. I may even dislike one at first, and then decide a few days later that I do like it. I can be stubborn like that sometimes, and then change my mind later. I don't ever totally discount anyone's suggestions and I'm appreciative of all of them.

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Given what I said about colors I do and don't like, and colors not used yet, what suggestions do you have for the dollar chip?

The white dollar mockup you posted below is much better imho and adds more contrast to the set.
Or then since you're not using all standard colors, go with a yellow $1 (or maybe arc yellow) and use a white $500.

FYI, I've used arc yellow in my set and love that one as base color.

 

[warma]

Here's another option for the hundo. However, this is now a Level 11 and runs $5.30 per chip, vs $4.02 for the other version. I actually WANT some $100 chips so this may or may not be feasible. To get this one, I removed the base color of the green nickel, and only used the base Imperial Blue from the quarter, plus the base colors of the $1, $5 and $20. I also rearranged the order of the colors to put colors together that looked better. It probably is a better looking chip, but much more expensive now.

View attachment 1073170

How many hundreds are you buying?

 

[Machine]

and it makes me smile to look at it.

thats what really matters!

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

New alternative for the $100 "clown" chip, as some have referred to it. Reduced the total edge spot colors from 6 to 3, picking up only the $1, $5 and $20 chip base colors.

Showing it next to the previous level 11 design. This one is level 4, so cost goes from $5.30 per chip to $3.02.

 

[chipinla]

Only because we need more palm tree sets, who is going to use this year’s NHL All Star Game logo as an inlay?

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Alright, this is done for now. I'm going to sit and stew on it for a week or two. At the suggestion of @Machine I toned down the DG Tiger spot on the $500 to DG Orange. I noticed that I had not used that color anyway. So this set now meets one of my goals, which was to not use any colors on more than one chip, except for the $100 chip which uses the base colors of the $1, $5 and $20 as it's edges spots. Every other color is used only once as either a base or an edge.

I'm going to turn my attention back to completing my inlay, and figuring out exactly how many of these I want to order. Any further discussions on this design will be in my personal thread which has my other previous chip designs and where I started discussing my new label/inlay design last year.

Thanks to all who provided feedback. I genuinely appreciate the input and the assistance.

 

[lacroix]

Here's the set with a white $1. I agree that it solves any dirty stack issues. But I just hate the way CPC white looks after a few years when the brass flakes develop verdigris.

View attachment 1072939

Can you post a picture of the verdigris chips? Thanks

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Can you post a picture of the verdigris chips? Thanks

First chip is bright white from a color sample. Second is regular white from the color sample. The rest are probably older - maybe ASM. They may not even be white. They look more beige, but they still show the discoloration from the brass flakes. Honestly, these aren't nearly as bad as some others I've seen that are very green from oxidation.

 

[lacroix]

First chip is bright white from a color sample. Second is regular white from the color sample. The rest are probably older - maybe ASM. They may not even be white. They look more beige, but they still show the discoloration from the brass flakes. Honestly, these aren't nearly as bad as some others I've seen that are very green from oxidation.

View attachment 1075270

Interesting that the whole chip gets discolored I’d think it would only be the brass flakes that show signs of discoloration

 

[Darson]

You really only see this in the weighted white and that's for chips that are never played with. I was really surprised to see that the visible brass flakes disappear from the edges of CPCs that have been used for a little.

 

[lacroix]

You really only see this in the weighted white and that's for chips that are never played with. I was really surprised to see that the visible brass flakes disappear from the edges of CPCs that have been used for a little.

Ohh that’s interesting, so cpc makes unweighted ones?

 

[lacroix]

You really only see this in the weighted white and that's for chips that are never played with. I was really surprised to see that the visible brass flakes disappear from the edges of CPCs that have been used for a little.

Or do you just mean all white ones

 

[AlbinoDragon]

There is a "bright White" that CPC offers that's unweighted and is brighter as a result.

 

[SendThatStack]

How noticeable is the weight difference? Do people mix the two in the same set? CPC says its 8g vs 8.5, is that correct? Seems too light for either one of them.

 

[SendThatStack]

Been working on some 1s. Kind of set on the 6A18 but not the colors. Might not go with light blue base it seems kind of dull.

 

[AlbinoDragon]

How noticeable is the weight difference? Do people mix the two in the same set? CPC says its 8g vs 8.5, is that correct? Seems too light for either one of them.

It's only noticeable if you are specifically looking for it or have a particluarly sensitive sense of touch, and even then I suspect blindfolded the majority of people wouldn't know. I have retro base colors mixed with regular base and don't notice it. Nobody at my game has ever mentioned it.


If you worry 8.0g is too light, CPC's might not be the right chip for you. That's plenty heavy for normal use. I've got 15k ASM/CPC chips, adore them all and don't feel I want or need a "heavier" chip. That said, it's all personal preference. Maybe samples would help you decide for sure? A shuffle stack at least to know before the investment.

 

[chipinla]

Been working on some 1s. Kind of set on the 6A18 but not the colors. Might not go with light blue base it seems kind of dull.

View attachment 1075751

Here’s dayglo peacock base with light blue/dayglo pink edge spots.
And light blue base with regular pink edge spots to give you an idea.

I love both. Entirely depends on the rest of the set though. Dayglo peacock would not work in the set that I have the light blue and vice versa. Light blue does come off a little gray IMO but again, I love it for the set that it’s in.

 

[chipinla]

It's only noticeable if you are specifically looking for it or have a particluarly sensitive sense of touch, and even then I suspect blindfolded the majority of people wouldn't know. I have retro base colors mixed with regular base and don't notice it. Nobody at my game has ever mentioned it.

Agreed. I’ve never noticed it at all. But I drink a lot when playing cards so I don’t notice much of anything.

 

[SendThatStack]

It's only noticeable if you are specifically looking for it or have a particluarly sensitive sense of touch, and even then I suspect blindfolded the majority of people wouldn't know. I have retro base colors mixed with regular base and don't notice it. Nobody at my game has ever mentioned it.


If you worry 8.0g is too light, CPC's might not be the right chip for you. That's plenty heavy for normal use. I've got 15k ASM/CPC chips, adore them all and don't feel I want or need a "heavier" chip. That said, it's all personal preference. Maybe samples would help you decide for sure? A shuffle stack at least to know before the investment.

The only set of clay chips I have is GPI Monacos which I think are 8g but says 8.5g on apach and I was told this is considered light. I dont really have a problem with it, just that I imagined a CPC would weigh very close to a Paulson THC or RHC.

@chipinla The set is a vegas cash set, so red $5, green $25 etc. Would the dayglow peacock go well with Red or Mandarin Red?

 

[chipinla]

The only set of clay chips I have is GPI Monacos which I think are 8g but says 8.5g on apach and I was told this is considered light. I dont really have a problem with it, just that I imagined a CPC would weigh very close to a Paulson THC or RHC.

@chipinla The set is a vegas cash set, so red $5, green $25 etc. Would the dayglow peacock go well with Red or Mandarin Red?

Retro red 100%. That’s your most traditional red.
Which green are you thinking? All of this depends on edge spots as well though

 

[SendThatStack]

Retro red 100%. That’s your most traditional red.
Which green are you thinking? All of this depends on edge spots as well though

Sounds good. Green was going to be regular green. Will post a rough draft of the 5/25/100 in a minute.

 

[SendThatStack]

Yellow Frac, white or blue $1, the 25 and 100 are still very early in the process not married to any of it.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

So what's the deal with this message? I see lots of you making chips with DG and bright white base colors. Is it a thing, or not?

 

[AlbinoDragon]

So what's the deal with this message? I see lots of you making chips with DG and bright white base colors. Is it a thing, or not?

View attachment 1075956

It's a warning to you that this could happen.

Once you have your spots and colors set, your best bet is to ask David about this.

 

[LinkyBabe]

So what's the deal with this message? I see lots of you making chips with DG and bright white base colors. Is it a thing, or not?

View attachment 1075956

My bright white base with maroon and butterscotch spots would generate this warning today but I had no issue with split spots when I received my order almost 2 years ago:

It can happen and there is a thread about it, but David is just trying to be transparent.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

My bright white base with maroon and butterscotch spots would generate this warning today but I had no issue with split spots when I received my order almost 2 years ago:

View attachment 1076047

It can happen and there is a thread about it, but David is just trying to be transparent.

So I guess it's something about the weighted and unweighted clays possibly not attaching to each other like they would it all the clay is one or the other. I will go look for the thread.

 

[Darson]

In my opinion the split spot warning on the tool is very very conservative. I got warnings for all these chips: