Ultrasonic Chip Cleaning (27 Viewers)

A REQUEST: If you’re interested in actually using any of these methods, I would really appreciate your thoughts, uncensored opinions, and constructive criticism on the comparison. Which methods do you like? Which do you not like?
I hope you can see the constructiveness in this:

Without knowing what the mystery cleaner is, this is a waste of time. If you don't care to share the brand name you could explain what the base chemical is.
No one is going to retain or be able to use the information, especially with only two products to compare.

P.S. I very much appreciate and applaud your efforts and have benefited from your post, I also appreciate your dedication to it!
 
Without knowing what the mystery cleaner is, this is a waste of time. If you don't care to share the brand name you could explain what the base chemical is.
No one is going to retain or be able to use the information, especially with only two products to compare.
(I’m assuming you looked at the Poker Chip Cleaning Methods Comparison for which I was requesting thoughts/opinions. If that’s not the case, please ignore my response below.)

I'm disappointed you think it's a waste of time to share your opinions or thoughts on one or more of the four methods in the comparison chart unless you know the specific cleaning agents in each.

Maybe I’m missing something, but I thought that the advantages, disadvantages, effort, time, costs, and results for each method were the relevant factors in deciding which one a person would choose to use or not use. That’s why I took the time to put that information in the comparison chart, comparing it to the ultrasonic cleaning with Lundmark “TSP” as detailed in the OP.

I wanted to know what resonated with folks before spending additional time, effort, and cash.

While I was mildly surprised that no one offered their thoughts and opinions on the comparison of the four different methods, I’m certainly not offended, and that fact in of itself was good information for me.

It would have been a waste of my time and money to continue testing and tweaking mixtures, concentrations, and procedures for any of the methods I didn't plan to use for myself, if no one else was interested.

It would have also been a waste of my time photographing and documenting one or more of the four methods, given no other interest.


Regardless, here are some cleaning agents I've used if you have an interest in giving them a try:
  • 37% hydrochloric acid
  • Concentrated chlorine bleach
  • Gumout carburetor cleaner
  • 91% isopropyl alcohol
  • Rubbing compound (for auto paint & body)
  • 12% hydrogen peroxide
  • Powdered yeast (in conjunction with others)
  • Dawn Ultra (in conjunction with others)

P.S. I very much appreciate and applaud your efforts and have benefited from your post, I also appreciate your dedication to it!
You’re very welcome. I’m surprised the thread has lasted over 10 years. There’s certainly nothing wrong with sticking with the method described in the OP.
 
While I was mildly surprised that no one offered their thoughts and opinions on the comparison of the four different methods, I’m certainly not offended, and that fact in of itself was good information for me.
I suspect lots of people are interested (including me) but I think @Machine's point was that it's not possible for us to compare the five different methods when only one of them is fully described.

"I had great results using the Mystery Cleaner!" ... um, what? how?


To clarify, it was not at all obvious that you wanted comments/input on

"How do these methods sound to you, in theory?"

vs

"Let me know which of these methods gave you good results!"


Now it seems apparent that you meant the former, but I (and I suspect others) read it as the latter.
 
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I suspect lots of people are interested (including me) but I think @Machine's point was that it's not possible for us to compare the five different methods when only one of them is fully described.

"I had great results using the Mystery Cleaner!" ... um, what? how?
So, two exaggerated examples…
  • Would you be interested in a method that cost $80 per 100 chips, but took zero time and effort?
  • Would you be interested in a method that cost $0, but took 10 hours of effort per rack?
Do the cleaning agents used in the two methods above make a difference to your decision?

Chris, call me lazy (I’ll own it), but I don’t want to spend the time and money experimenting, tweaking, photographing, and documenting a bunch of stuff if there’s no interest.

That’s why I’ve posted photos of results, and why I did my best to compare and contrast the 4 methods with the OP method, in order to see what people might actually use.
 
Chris, call me lazy (I’ll own it), but I don’t want to spend the time and money experimenting, tweaking, photographing, and documenting a bunch of stuff if there’s no interest.
That wasn't my point at all. My point was that I didn't understand what input you were seeking. Now that I do, I'll give it some thought and feedback soon.
 
I know it’s a big ugly spreadsheet, but did anyone actually look at the Poker Chip Cleaning Methods Comparison?
I did!

  • Would you be interested in a method that cost $80 per 100 chips, but took zero time and effort?
  • Would you be interested in a method that cost $0, but took 10 hours of effort per rack?
Yes and yes

I don't think you lazy and I don't think you've wasted your time at all, with the exception that publishing results without telling us what your testing.

Its like that scene from Oceans 11 where Pitt says ' And never, ever ... ' walking away from the conversation.
 
Okay guys, a few more questions. I have the 6L Vevor and haven't used it yet.

I just wanted to confirm a few things before I give it a go.

It sounds like several people mention temping at around 40-42 degrees C. Is this a good temperature to use for Paulson RHCs?

My Ultrasonic cleaner didn't mention anything regarding water type in the instructions. Can you use tap water- or should distilled water be used?

I see a few mentions of using 4 tablespoons of the Lundmark TSP Cleaner (actually Sodium Metasilicate?) per Gallon. How much water would you guys recommend using in a 6L ultrasonic at that ratio?

How many chips do you guys generally clean before replacing the water and adding cleaner?

Any more last minute tips? I was thinking of doing a test batch tomorrow- but can push it back a few days if necessary.
 
Okay guys, a few more questions. I have the 6L Vevor and haven't used it yet.

I just wanted to confirm a few things before I give it a go.

It sounds like several people mention temping at around 40-42 degrees C. Is this a good temperature to use for Paulson RHCs?

My Ultrasonic cleaner didn't mention anything regarding water type in the instructions. Can you use tap water- or should distilled water be used?

I see a few mentions of using 4 tablespoons of the Lundmark TSP Cleaner (actually Sodium Metasilicate?) per Gallon. How much water would you guys recommend using in a 6L ultrasonic at that ratio?

How many chips do you guys generally clean before replacing the water and adding cleaner?

Any more last minute tips? I was thinking of doing a test batch tomorrow- but can push it back a few days if necessary.

In general I think 40C is a good temperature for all chips.
You should use distilled water unless you have the absolutely cleanest tap water on the planet.
I use 1 tbsp per litre. I typically use 3L of water at a time, so 3 tbsps.
I try not to do more than 1000-1200 chips per cleaning cycle. The rinse water should be changed after every 400 chips or so.

Wear eye protection. Wear good gloves. Do the cleaning in a very well ventilated space or outside. Have lots of towels to do an initial drying after rinsing and then lay out on other towels/bedsheets to air dry afterward.
If there's no visible gunk on the chips, you can probably get away with 1 minute clean. If there is visible gunk then you may need 2 minutes or more.
 
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UPDATED 2014/12/10

Is This Topic for You?:
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Before we start, I consider my own time valuable, and out of respect for others, I don't want to waste YOUR time. To see if this topic is for you, mark the following statements below TRUE or FALSE:

1) I like having a little dirt and gunk on my poker chips. I think it lends some casino class.

2) I don't insist that my poker chips are 100% clean. 80-90% is good enough.

3) I enjoy scrubbing chips with a toothbrush and/or Magic Eraser and/or dental pick.

4) I don't really put any value on my time, and I don't want to spend any money. Besides, I scrub chips while watching TV, and I can focus on two things at once and still do a great job cleaning my chips.

5) I don't notice the permanent fading of my chips that occurs with some colors when I give them 15 minute or longer hot soaks in Oxi Clean, or if I notice the fading, I really don't care.

6) I have filthy Burt Co./ASM/CPC chips to clean.

7) I already own a high-end Chip Brite® ultrasonic cleaner!
http://www.tcsjohnhuxley.com/en/live-gaming/utilities/chip-washer.html


If you marked ANY of the statements above TRUE, then I recommend that you stop reading now, as THIS TOPIC IS NOT FOR YOU. To borrow another member's infamous tag line, it's a "No thanks." :D



Summary:
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This updated topic describes a process I've used to effectively clean dirty used Paulson chips (RHC, SCV, LCV) with an ultrasonic cleaner and sodium metasilicate with a minimum of effort. I've also used this process to clean ceramic Chipcos (Hard Rocks) and Bud Jones roulettes (Aztar). To be clear, just as with traditional manual baths followed by scrubbing/wiping/brushing/etc., this process only cleans the dirt and filth from the chips, i.e. it does not remove chip marks that are a result of harsh contact with other chips, like rack checks. Photos can be found at the bottom of this post.

Please be sure to do TESTING on a small number of chips prior to using ANY cleaning process on large quantities of expensive chips!


Bottom Line Results:
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This process results in completely clean chips for me, with absolutely NO brushing, scrubbing, or wiping whatsoever (i.e. no toothbrushes, Magic Erasers, etc.). Using this process, I am able to consistently clean 1,000 Paulson RHC chips (such as dirty Aztar E, Par-A-Dice, and Garden City casino chips) in an hour. This timeframe includes a 45 second ultrasonic bath for 40 chips at a time, plus the time necessary to rinse the chips in clean water, soak for 1 minute in white vinegar (5% acidity - to eliminate cigarette smoke odor if your chips have it - done while ultrasonic cleaning the next batch), pat them dry with a towel, and lay them out flat on a table for overnight drying.

Filthy Paulson SCV/LCV chips you ask? I can get 1,000 nasty Empress chips clean in 1-1/2 hours (as long as someone else hasn't previously tried to clean them, which makes the job a lot harder).

Hot-stamps? I've cleaned Casino Miami 300x gold hot-stamp fracs and 20x silver hot-stamp $10 chips with no discoloration or other problems using sodium metasilicate.

The speed is a combination of the fast ultrasonic cleaning, and setting up a good workspace and process that doesn't involve a lot of individual chip handling, walking back and forth, etc. These timeframes do not include equipment setup or cleanup, nor do they include time necessary to explain to your significant other exactly why you need to co-opt her kitchen.


Equipment and Materials:
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1. Hornady "Lock 'n' Load" Magnum Sonic Cleaner - dual transducer ultrasonic cleaner with 140 W of power (currently about $200 on Amazon).
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Stainless-Steel-Sonic-Cleaner/dp/B004EXWERQ

Do NOT skimp here. If you get a smaller, low power, single transducer unit marketed as a "jewelry cleaner", you WILL be disappointed.

The ultrasonic cleaner is also great for jewelry, glasses, fuel injectors, carburetor parts, filthy used chip racks from casinos, and even the stainless beverage holders in your poker table that get nasty after a few games!


2. Lundmark "TSP" (sodium metasilicate) Hard Surface Cleaner
http://www.amazon.com/Lundmark-TSP-Hard-Surface-Cleaner/dp/B001001VRA/

I hate the false advertising by Lundmark and others that boldly put "TSP" on the labels of their products that are NOT trisodium phosphate, but I love the way that sodium metasilicate cleans chips.

3. A plastic "chip barrel cage" (my term) taken from something called a "Salad Spinner" (about $8 for the one I got). I found this in a local Kroger grocery store. Below is a link to a salad spinner on Amazon that is identical to mine, though it's currently about twice the price that I paid in the grocery store:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JYZSTK

IMPORTANT NOTE: In order to get good "turnover" of the chips while rotating the cage, I added four plastic ties to the sides of the cage. This easy modification significantly reduced the amount of time it takes to clean the chips! See the photos at the end of the topic.

If you can't get the same thing, substitutions could be made here, as you just need something to contain the chips while you rotate them during the ultrasonic bath. However, I strongly recommend plastic instead of metal here, in order to prevent tearing up the stainless tank in the ultrasonic cleaner. I also recommend finding something as large as possible that still fits in the ultrasonic tank.

4. Distilled Water (around 70-80 cents/gallon) - for better cleaning, and to help ensure that others who try this process will get similar results. Depending upon the hardness of the water in your location, use of distilled water can make a significant difference!

5. A large clean bowl to use for rinsing the chips in clean water after the ultrasonic bath. I used the large plastic container that came as part of the "Salad Spinner".

6. Lots of clean towels to pat dry the chips, and to wipe up any minor splashes that occur during rotating the chip barrel cage during the ultrasonic bath. I recommend "bar mop" towels. They are great for drying chips, and even better for wiping excess mineral oil from chips. They're also very cheap if you buy a pack of them at Sams or a similar warehouse club, and they'll keep you from getting in trouble with the missus for using her nice towels for wiping chips. Here's an example at Sams:
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/bakers-chefs-bar-mops-16-x-19-24-ct/prod3530205.ip

7. Measuring cup for the distilled water.

8. Measuring spoon (tablespoon) for the sodium metasilicate powder.


Process:
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IMPORTANT - INSPECT RESULTS ON THE FIRST BATCH OF YOUR OWN CHIPS CAREFULLY PRIOR TO CONTINUING TO CLEAN THE REST OF YOUR COLLECTION!
This process did not damage any of my Paulson chips (including thousands of Casino Aztar Evansville, Par-A-Dice, Garden City, Casablanca, Empress, Casino Miami, and others). To the contrary, it eliminated nearly all the fading problems I was experiencing with longer/hotter Oxi baths. It also bears noting that this process, which includes tumbling the chips in a cage in the ultrasonic bath, did NOT impart any visible damage (chipping/nicks) in even the most fragile of chips that I cleaned - some near-mint white RHC Terrible's $1s that still had razor sharp edges, but had become grey from cheesy dirty hands in someone's home games! However, your own chips, equipment, and process conditions COULD yield different results, so be careful! I'm not responsible for any damage that might occur using this process, any more than any of the other helpful people at PCF & CT are responsible for minor damage (fading) I inflicted upon small numbers of my own chips when I followed some of the traditional processes noted in the forums! :D

Here we go...

0. Prepare your workspace, and be safe! This goes a long way toward speeding the overall job. I recommend locating the ultrasonic unit very close to the kitchen sink, with some space close by large enough to place a medium towel that will be used for the initial drying of 40 chips at a time. Put your large bowl for rinsing in the sink and fill it with clean warm water. Get your towels ready.

KITCHEN AND PERSONAL SAFETY:
• Cover any kitchen countertops, cabinet faces, backsplashes, etc. that could be splashed with the sodium metasilicate solution. Don't forget to cover the floor nearby, too! Your personal safety is at risk if the missus finds that you've ruined her kitchen.
• Wear eye protection.
• Wear gloves. The thin latex gloves you can get at the drug store work great.

1. Heat 2 cups of distilled water in a clean measuring cup in a microwave for about 3 minutes.

2. Pour the heated water into the tank of the ultrasonic cleaner.

3. Dissolve 2 tablespoons of Lundmark "TSP" sodium metasilicate in the hot water.

4. Add 6 more cups of distilled water to the ultrasonic cleaner, for a total of 8 cups. I found that this gave me something close to the 110 F temperature that I wanted to use.

5. Plug in the ultrasonic cleaner, and turn on the built in heater if the temperature isn't yet up to 110 F. Turning on the ultrasonic transducers will heat the water even faster if necessary.

6. Put 40 chips in the chip barrel cage.

7. Set the ultrasonic cleaner timer. As a guideline, I recommend the following times:
• Lightly soiled Chipcos - 30 seconds
• Lightly soiled Paulsons of any mold - 30 to 45 seconds
• Heavily gunked up Paulson RHC chips - 45 to 60 seconds
• Heavily gunked up Bud Jones roulettes - 60 seconds
• Heavily gunked up Paulson SCV/LCV - 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 minutes

If you have some PREVIOUSLY CLEANED Paulson SCV/LCV chips that still have gunk in the rings and Hat & Cane mold, you may find that the gunk has been hardened to the point where even 2-1/2 minutes in the ultrasonic bath won't remove it. I'm not sure whether the previous cleaning process, detergent, and/or heat causes this, but I've experienced it. In any case, if you have chips like these, I recommend you give 2-1/2 minutes a shot, and if that doesn't work, give up and resort to getting the hardened gunk out with a dental pick or the back side of the point of an X-Acto knife. If you elect to trying longer baths in the ultrasonic unit, please be VERY careful to watch for fading.

8. Place the chip barrel cage with chips in the ultrasonic tank, and turn on the ultrasonic cleaner.

9. Rotate the chip barrel cage by hand for the entire ultrasonic cleaning time. I've found that 1/2 rotation per second works best. You'll note that the ultrasonic transducers add a lot of energy to the bath that's absorbed by the chips and radiated as heat, i.e. the temperature of the water will rise during the bath. I try to keep the temperature around an average of 110-115 F.

SAFETY CAUTION: BE CAREFUL TO KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT OF THE ULTRASONIC BATH WHILE THE UNIT IS RUNNING. IF YOU DON'T, IT WILL *NOT* FEEL GOOD!

Also note that I've experimented with a lot of different rotation speeds, and alternating between rotating/waiting, etc., but the constant 1/2 rotation per second has worked best so far.

10. When the ultrasonic cleaning cycle has completed, slowly remove the chip barrel cage from the tank, give it a gentle shake, and allow the excess water to drain back into the ultrasonic tank.

11. Dump the chips into the bowl of warm clean water to rinse. Agitate the chips by hand a bit to ensure they're well rinsed.

12a. If your chips have cigarette odor, take them from the rinsing bowl, shake the excess water, and put them straight into a container of 5% distilled white vinegar (I use a cheap plastic tupperware-like container for this). Then begin ultrasonic cleaning your next batch of chips while these cleaned chips soak in vinegar to remove the odor. When your next batch of chips is clean and in the rinsing bowl, remove the chips from the vinegar bath, shake the excess vinegar, and place them on a towel to pat dry as in step 12b (you don't need to rinse them in water again).

12b. If your chips don't have cigarette odor, remove them from the rinsing bowl and lay them flat on a towel, and pat the tops dry with another towel. Remove and place the chips flat on a large towel on a table for overnight drying prior to oiling.

After patting dry, I move the chips to the "overnight drying table" (my poker table) by picking up the four corners of the bar mop towel on which they were pat dried. Over the long haul, this saves a lot of time by minimizing the handling individual chips.

13. Loop back to step 6 and repeat as necessary until you're done. Note that I use the same bath of sodium metasilicate water for 1,000 chips, and though filthy at the end, the original bath water is still effective in cleaning the last batch of chips. However, I often find that after cleaning about 1,000 chips, the sodium metasilicate bath becomes very foamy (possibly from detergents used to clean the chips at the casino) to the point of spilling over out of the ultrasonic unit. So, I usually change out the bath water about every 1,000 chips when I have more than that number to clean.


Closing Remarks:
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I sincerely hope you find this process useful. If you decide to give it a try, let us know how it works for you! -Ski


Photos:
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The "Salad Spinner" which provided a nice inexpensive plastic "chip barrel cage" that worked really well for the ultrasonic cleaning process:
ultrasonic-SaladSpinner.jpg


Four plastic ties on the cage to greatly improve chip turnover and reduce cleaning times:
ultrasonic-SaladSpinner-ties01.jpg


ultrasonic-SaladSpinner-ties02.jpg


The Hornady Magnum Sonic Cleaner with the chip barrel cage:
ultrasonic-Hornady-barrel.jpg


Some Casino Aztar Primary $5 chips prior to cleaning, under the harsh light of a flash (not flattering to the chips, but shows the dirt better):
ultrasonic-Chips-005-dirty.jpg


The same Casino Aztar Primary $5 chips after cleaning and rinsing, again under the harsh light of a flash (again, not flattering to the chips, but shows how clean they are):
ultrasonic-Chips-005-clean.jpg
It’s insane how far of depths people will go just to help others, really appreciate this man gonna have to try this out.
 
Random thought I just had, has anyone every tried 3d printing racks to go in an ultrasonic? Ideally they would hold chips so that the majority of the surface area of the chip is exposed and would save the trouble of various kinds of agitation needed. PETG should hold up to the temps in an ultrasonic cleaner well enough, I would also guess you want 100% infill so there's no air in the print. No idea how it reacts to the common cleaners people use though.

Basically this idea but 3d printed.
1726554246948.jpeg
 
I’m looking for some feedback after running my milled yellow solids through my ultrasonic cleaner.

I was able to clean them up pretty well, but I noticed that the edges still don’t look perfectly clean. It seems like the grime has been stuck on them for quite some time. These are leaded yellow, formerly C&E monograms, that I’m adding to my Flamingo set.

I used my 6L ultrasonic cleaner with 2 tbsp of TSP and 1 tbsp of Dawn dish soap. This combination has worked well for me in the past, but even after using a magic eraser on the edges, they still won’t come completely clean.

Has anyone had success cleaning really stubborn grime after using an ultrasonic cleaner? I’m looking for the most effective method, regardless of time. It’s only two racks, so I’m willing to take my time if necessary.
 
I’m looking for some feedback after running my milled yellow solids through my ultrasonic cleaner.

I was able to clean them up pretty well, but I noticed that the edges still don’t look perfectly clean. It seems like the grime has been stuck on them for quite some time. These are leaded yellow, formerly C&E monograms, that I’m adding to my Flamingo set.

I used my 6L ultrasonic cleaner with 2 tbsp of TSP and 1 tbsp of Dawn dish soap. This combination has worked well for me in the past, but even after using a magic eraser on the edges, they still won’t come completely clean.

Has anyone had success cleaning really stubborn grime after using an ultrasonic cleaner? I’m looking for the most effective method, regardless of time. It’s only two racks, so I’m willing to take my time if necessary.
Do yours look like this?
IMG_8449.jpeg

After ultra sonic, I just had to hand scrub the edges with toothbrush and Dawn dish soap.

IMG_8451.jpeg
 
I bought a brush off amazon that I found much easier to use than a toothbrush for scrubbing edges. Would recommend something similar to anyone doing the same. Just make sure whatever you get isn't too stiff or abrasive. Was advertised as boar bristle but idk for sure.

1729635201218.jpeg
 
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Exactly!
Ultrasonic and then toothbrush.
I've always had great results with the ultrasonic cleaner and never needed to use the toothbrush method afterward. I've probably cleaned close to 10,000 chips in the ultrasonic, and they always come out perfect. But there's a first time for everything. Guess when debris gets really stuck in those tiny grooves on the sides, sometimes you have to agitate them a bit to get them fully cleaned.
 
IMG_2539.jpeg


Just finished the bottom rack. Ultrasonic (with TSP) for 2 minutes. Pull them out and soak them in hot water. Pull them out then then dip each one in hot water before cleaning with a magic eraser. Dip it again and scrub with a toothbrush and wipe.

IMG_2528.jpeg


There’s your end result.
 
I know it’s a big ugly spreadsheet, but did anyone actually look at the Poker Chip Cleaning Methods Comparison?
I watched and read carefully. In principle, I very carefully reread the entire thread from the beginning and I want to say that you did a great job! I really appreciate your efforts. I also tried to clean the chips, for example, with gasoline ... But it did not help ... Moreover, it got under the label. This worries me a lot, so if I had to choose between risk and chip safety, I would choose a simple brush with soap and ultrasound, for a large number of chips.
 
But, 3500 chips, more and more incline me to us, but 1100 of them are brand new CPC and they are very dusty...
Something needs to be done with this before hot stamping.
 
But for example, there's a pinkish tint, very annoying, which is impossible to remove from the chips without mechanical sanding.
IMG_20241024_192541.jpg

IMG_20241024_192707.jpg

I accidentally got it while trying to clean some chips with nail polish remover. The bottle smelled strongly of acetone. I don’t remember exactly what it was, but something like that. I took it from my wife.
And the most surprising thing is that the culprit is not the red color, but the blue clay (possibly shades of blue/purple).
I immediately remembered that post... The guys couldn’t wash them off either.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/1-indiana-grand-chips-for-sale.112037/page-1

I tend to believe that some cleaning liquid/aerosol in the casino got on these chips and started dissolving the blue shades of clay.

That's why I switched to manual cleaning. It’s safe.

But I really respect what @ski_ex5 does for the community the fact that he risks his chips.
 

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