Cards Mold/"Tina" Alibaba Ceramics Master Consolidated Info Thread (12 Viewers)

[xdan]

@buckrodgers is this the thread you wanted?

 

[buckrodgers]

@xdan , sure is, thank you!

 

[yoknee]

Happy to make suggestions, but we need more information. What stakes and size buy-in do you want to play? I like to be able to cover a wide range of stakes with my cash sets so I have everything from 5 cent chips (actually have one set with 2 cent chips) Up to $100 chips. I have small friendly games with family members and inexperienced poker players where we play .05 / .10 blinds and $20 buy in, with only a few re-buys. These games will use a .05 .25 $1 and a few $5 chips. But last night I played in a game with this same chip set. We played .25/.50 blinds, buy-ins were up to $100, and the game got fairly splashy with quite a few re-buys. The $20s and even a couple $100 chips made appearances. And then there are players in here who use $500 and up chips in their cash games. Maybe even 2 or 3 denominations above the $500.

So the point is, you need to tailor your chip set to YOUR needs. What is the most amount of money you think could make it onto the table? And then cover that by 2x, 3x or even more if you think the game might grow. What blinds will you play? And are you a minimalist who wants the least number of chips to run a good game, or are are you in the MOAR CHIPS camp and want the table covered in beautiful poker chip glory!!!

By the way - Welcome to PCF!

Wow quick reply! Loving this community already. Thanks for your 2 cents on this...

Player count: 6-8 players
Stakes: $50-100 buy-in (1-2 rebuys for up to $100) - Don't want players going home feeling like they lost it all, but still feel like they won something.
Blinds: I think .25/.50 would be a good fit for $50-100 buy-in.
Pot: Could be a ~$300 low (6 players at $50) and up to ~$1200 high (8 players at $50 + 8 $100 buy-ins). Splashy indeed!
Chips: I want players to have small chips to start, but if players come late, then they could come in and exchange for lower denom chips on the table.

Hope this helps! And appreciate all the thoughts.

 

[SeanGecko]

Wow quick reply! Loving this community already. Thanks for your 2 cents on this...

Player count: 6-8 players
Stakes: $50-100 buy-in (1-2 rebuys for up to $100) - Don't want players going home feeling like they lost it all, but still feel like they won something.
Blinds: I think .25/.50 would be a good fit for $50-100 buy-in.
Pot: Could be a ~$300 low (6 players at $50) and up to ~$1200 high (8 players at $50 + 8 $100 buy-ins). Splashy indeed!
Chips: I want players to have small chips to start, but if players come late, then they could come in and exchange for lower denom chips on the table.

Hope this helps! And appreciate all the thoughts.

What have you typically played?
Do you se the game changing at all?

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Wow quick reply! Loving this community already. Thanks for your 2 cents on this...

Player count: 6-8 players
Stakes: $50-100 buy-in (1-2 rebuys for up to $100) - Don't want players going home feeling like they lost it all, but still feel like they won something.
Blinds: I think .25/.50 would be a good fit for $50-100 buy-in.
Pot: Could be a ~$300 low (6 players at $50) and up to ~$1200 high (8 players at $50 + 8 $100 buy-ins). Splashy indeed!
Chips: I want players to have small chips to start, but if players come late, then they could come in and exchange for lower denom chips on the table.

Hope this helps! And appreciate all the thoughts.

Perfect. I like a decent number of quarters so you're not constantly making change. So at least 12 per person in the starting stacks. Some will say that 8 is enough, and it can be. But I like more. Even up to a full barrel if you like, but that might be too many. So if you never see the game being more than 8 players, one rack of quarters should do you. Also, if your players don't all show up at one time, you can also do one barrel each for the first 5 players, then just use higher chips for the late comers. And you don't need quarters for re-buys.

Here are the stacks I used in Friday night's game that was about the same size as what you described.

For the initial $50 buy-in:
12 x .25 - $3
22 x $1 - $22
5 x $5 - $25

Then for those who bought in for $100 I added:
6 x $5
1 x $20

Then the above was also used for any additional $50 rebuys, or double it for $100 rebuys.

So for a full set to cover this game for 8 players, just do the math.

100 x .25
200 x $1
200 x $5 (some will say bump this to 300)
60 x $20
40 x $100 (in case you get more buy-ins and you run low on $5s (or $20s), you can buy from the bigger stacks with the $100s)

That's over $6000 bank which will MORE than cover your current game, and only requires 600 chips. If you see stakes going up to $1/2 or $2/5 someday, then get the 300 $5s and more $20s.

If you are never going to exceed $1200-$1500 on the table, you could reduce the $20s to two barrels and the $100s to one barrel, but if you're buying cards mold, then why scrimp on 40-60 chips that cost less than $30?

BTW, I'm team $20 chips for cash games, but you can just as easily use $25s instead. Except I don't think it's just as easy because I feel the math works better with $20 chips when playing smaller stakes using fracs. Also I like to do buy-ins and rebuys in multiples of $20 ($20, $40, $60) so it's easier for me to use a $20 chip. But that's just me. You do you.

 

[SeanGecko]

Perfect. I like a decent number of quarters so you're not constantly making change. So at least 12 per person in the starting stacks. Some will say that 8 is enough, and it can be. But I like more. Even up to a full barrel if you like, but that might be too many. So if you never see the game being more than 8 players, one rack of quarters should do you. Also, if your players don't all show up at one time, you can also do one barrel each for the first 5 players, then just use higher chips for the late comers. And you don't need quarters for re-buys.

Here are the stacks I used in Friday night's game that was about the same size as what you described.

For the initial $50 buy-in:
12 x .25 - $3
22 x $1 - $22
5 x $5 - $25

Then for those who bought in for $100 I added:
6 x $5
1 x $20

Then the above was also used for any additional $50 rebuys, or double it for $100 rebuys.

So for a full set to cover this game for 8 players, just do the math.

100 x .25
200 x $1
200 x $5 (some will say bump this to 300)
60 x $20
40 x $100 (in case you get more buy-ins and you run low on $5s (or $20s), you can buy from the bigger stacks with the $100s)

That's over $6000 bank which will MORE than cover your current game, and only requires 600 chips. If you see stakes going up to $1/2 or $2/5 someday, then get the 300 $5s and more $20s.

If you are never going to exceed $1200-$1500 on the table, you could reduce the $20s to two barrels and the $100s to one barrel, but if you're buying cards mold, then why scrimp on 40-60 chips that cost less than $30?

BTW, I'm team $20 chips for cash games, but you can just as easily use $25s instead. Except I don't think it's just as easy because I feel the math works better with $20 chips when playing smaller stakes using fracs. Also I like to do buy-ins and rebuys in multiples of $20 ($20, $40, $60) so it's easier for me to use a $20 chip. But that's just me. You do you.

Moar!!!!!!!

 

[yoknee]

What have you typically played?
Do you se the game changing at all?

Starting with Holdem and willing to learn other games. There is interest in Omaha, 7 card stud, and others.

 

[yoknee]

Perfect. I like a decent number of quarters so you're not constantly making change. So at least 12 per person in the starting stacks. Some will say that 8 is enough, and it can be. But I like more. Even up to a full barrel if you like, but that might be too many. So if you never see the game being more than 8 players, one rack of quarters should do you. Also, if your players don't all show up at one time, you can also do one barrel each for the first 5 players, then just use higher chips for the late comers. And you don't need quarters for re-buys.

Here are the stacks I used in Friday night's game that was about the same size as what you described.

For the initial $50 buy-in:
12 x .25 - $3
22 x $1 - $22
5 x $5 - $25

Then for those who bought in for $100 I added:
6 x $5
1 x $20

Then the above was also used for any additional $50 rebuys, or double it for $100 rebuys.

So for a full set to cover this game for 8 players, just do the math.

100 x .25
200 x $1
200 x $5 (some will say bump this to 300)
60 x $20
40 x $100 (in case you get more buy-ins and you run low on $5s (or $20s), you can buy from the bigger stacks with the $100s)

That's over $6000 bank which will MORE than cover your current game, and only requires 600 chips. If you see stakes going up to $1/2 or $2/5 someday, then get the 300 $5s and more $20s.

If you are never going to exceed $1200-$1500 on the table, you could reduce the $20s to two barrels and the $100s to one barrel, but if you're buying cards mold, then why scrimp on 40-60 chips that cost less than $30?

BTW, I'm team $20 chips for cash games, but you can just as easily use $25s instead. Except I don't think it's just as easy because I feel the math works better with $20 chips when playing smaller stakes using fracs. Also I like to do buy-ins and rebuys in multiples of $20 ($20, $40, $60) so it's easier for me to use a $20 chip. But that's just me. You do you.

Thanks for the breakdown. Using this info to setup a Google Sheet to get what I need.

 

[SeanGecko]

Pineapple is a good starting game.
Pot limit and fixed limit are great additions to a game night. Especially if you're card dead

 

[yoknee]

Pineapple is a good starting game.
Pot limit and fixed limit are great additions to a game night. Especially if you're card dead

Heard about Pineapple. Love the name -
Obvs. Will watch some vids on it. Thanks!

 

[SeanGecko]

Heard about Pineapple. Love the name -
Obvs. Will watch some vids on it. Thanks!

Crazy pineapple is the way

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Thanks for the breakdown. Using this info to setup a Google Sheet to get what I need.

If you don't want to wait for customs - here's a cool set in Cali colors.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...om-card-molds-plus-extras-coke-giraffe.95099/

Even if you do get customs. these will be easy to sell once they arrive.

 

[Velyks]

On it's way to a table near me! My first real set.

 

[Tiltedquads]

Are the center pieces inlays or stickers that I can peel off or printed on the chip? I have a sample set on the way but am having a hard time wrapping my head around how these chips are made

 

[Colquhoun]

Are the center pieces inlays or stickers that I can peel off or printed on the chip? I have a sample set on the way but am having a hard time wrapping my head around how these chips are made

No sticker, these are full-face printed. There's a small recessed ring in the center, and chip designers have made it so that it looks like an inlay, but is printed on (actually into) the chip material.
Take a look at some of the close-up photos in this post:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/cards-mold-ceramic-chip-comparisons.72320/post-1463225

 

[Dodger]

Are the center pieces inlays or stickers that I can peel off or printed on the chip? I have a sample set on the way but am having a hard time wrapping my head around how these chips are made

Printed directly on the chip. No sticker.

 

[Tiltedquads]

No sticker, these are full-face printed. There's a small recessed ring in the center, and chip designers have made it so that it looks like an inlay, but is printed on (actually into) the chip material.
Take a look at some of the close-up photos in this post:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/cards-mold-ceramic-chip-comparisons.72320/post-1463225

Printed directly on the chip. No sticker.

Thank you! I was confused about the whole ceramic thing because I thought these were stickers! does tina offer flat chips like brpro? I think that there could be so so many more amazing ideas out there if all the great minds that have made amazing card molds weren't limited by the typical chip tropes!

 

[Dodger]

Thank you! I was confused about the whole ceramic thing because I thought these were stickers! does tina offer flat chips like brpro? I think that there could be so so many more amazing ideas out there if all the great minds that have made amazing card molds weren't limited by the typical chip tropes!

There was a ‘no mold’ 43mm before a card mold 43mm. Not sure about 39mm.

Paging the king, @SeanGecko. He may know.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

Thank you! I was confused about the whole ceramic thing because I thought these were stickers! does tina offer flat chips like brpro? I think that there could be so so many more amazing ideas out there if all the great minds that have made amazing card molds weren't limited by the typical chip tropes!

Yes, there are flat, or "no mold" blanks. I used the 43mm no mold for Bounty chips in my custom set.

These are all the various sizes Tina prints on. Both the 39mm and the 43mm can be ordered on cards mold. I believe she also has a 39mm diamond mold.

As you can see, she also has ceramic plaques. And she also offers plastic plaques. This was from a Group Buy for PCA plaques.

 

[SeanGecko]

There was a ‘no mold’ 43mm before a card mold 43mm. Not sure about 39mm.

Paging the king, @SeanGecko. He may know.

And a Diamond Mold. There is possibly a 43 Diamond Mold but that isn't in my kingdom.

 

[harrysallout]

On it's way to a table near me! My first real set.

Not sure if I should mention it but since this looks like a tourney set it appears they sent you the cash $100s instead of the T100s. Regardless I love me some Arias.

 

[Velyks]

Not sure if I should mention it but since this looks like a tourney set it appears they sent you the cash $100s instead of the T100s. Regardless I love me some Arias.

I can now not unsee this...

 

[harrysallout]

Sorry Bud. Most won't notice or be bothered by it but unfortunately us mother PCFers do. Hopefully they make it right for you.

 

[TX_Golf_N_Poker]

I can now not unsee this...

If you bought these from a group buy, then it's very likely these were sent to you by mistake, and your tournament chips were also sent by mistake to someone else. Contact your GB organizer and see if they can sort it out and find your chips.

 

[Velyks]

Nah it was a personal buy (Ain't noone shipping group buys to the UK). I'll get in touch with Tina and say the wrong ones were sent. I'm going to wait till they arrive first just to confirm that I got the wrong ones before that though.

 

[CrazyEddie]

Thank you! I was confused about the whole ceramic thing because I thought these were stickers! does tina offer flat chips like brpro?

Worth noting that there's essentially three types of ceramics:

"Flat" or "no-mold" chips are the standard ceramics that have been in use at casinos for ages, and are the type that BRPro offers. Other vendors, including Tina, also offer these types of chips. The artwork is directly printed onto the chip using what's called "dye sublimation" or dye-sub printing.

Molded ceramics have debossed impressions around the rim and (usually) a debossed ring around the center. The center of the chip is not recessed, although the debossed ring can make it seem like it is in pictures if you don't look closely. These are the types of chips that Tina's cards mold are, as well as Tina's diamond mold. Sun-Fly also sells chips like this (with cards and diamonds molds, plus others) which they call their PolyClay line. Like the no-molds, these chips are also directly printed with dye-sub printing.

Hybrid ceramics have a recess molded into the center of the chip. The outer edge and the rolling edge are dye-sub printed directly onto the chip like a typical ceramic, but the recess instead has a printed adhesive label stuck onto it. This makes it a hybrid between a ceramic (direct printing) and a plastic or china clay chip (central sticker). Sun-Fly offers hybrids in their PolyInno line and many PCF members have made great designs using Sun-Fly hybrids. Tina also offers hybrids but I haven't seen anyone make a set using them so far.

The molded recess on a hybrid is necessary to use a sticker; otherwise the stickered surface wouldn't be flat and the chips wouldn't stack well. By contrast, the molded chips have their center design printed directly onto the chip, which requires the center to not be recessed or it wouldn't print cleanly. The center of a molded chip is flat, although the debossed ring around the center makes it look otherwise.

Hybrids don't have debossed impressions like cards or diamonds around the edge; they're flat other than the central recess. There's no reason they couldn't, but so far none of the manufacturers have offered a hybrid with a molded design. Some PCF members have sketched out ideas for chips like this, with an eye towards commissioning a custom mold, but those plans haven't come together yet.

 

[Velyks]

Just talked to Tina. They offered to either refund the cost of the $100 chips or send me the correct T100 chips later.
I opted to wait for the replacement T100 chips though I'm going to have to wait until Tina gets another order from the UK to tack this onto. I can use the $100 chips for now so I don't mind waiting a bit. I don't have to return the $100 chips

Edit: Maybe I should just buy another round of chips from them

 

[harrysallout]

Do I smell a cash set?

 

[Tiltedquads]

Yes, there are flat, or "no mold" blanks. I used the 43mm no mold for Bounty chips in my custom set.

View attachment 995124

These are all the various sizes Tina prints on. Both the 39mm and the 43mm can be ordered on cards mold. I believe she also has a 39mm diamond mold.

View attachment 995126

As you can see, she also has ceramic plaques. And she also offers plastic plaques. This was from a Group Buy for PCA plaques.

View attachment 995129

This is so helpful to see all of the physical pieces! Thank you so much! I also love your texas flood set! you've struck the perfect balance of uniquely yours but also would be perfectly reasonable to think that these are straight from a casino!

Worth noting that there's essentially three types of ceramics:

"Flat" or "no-mold" chips are the standard ceramics that have been in use at casinos for ages, and are the type that BRPro offers. Other vendors, including Tina, also offer these types of chips. The artwork is directly printed onto the chip using what's called "dye sublimation" or dye-sub printing.

Molded ceramics have debossed impressions around the rim and (usually) a debossed ring around the center. The center of the chip is not recessed, although the debossed ring can make it seem like it is in pictures if you don't look closely. These are the types of chips that Tina's cards mold are, as well as Tina's diamond mold. Sun-Fly also sells chips like this (with cards and diamonds molds, plus others) which they call their PolyClay line. Like the no-molds, these chips are also directly printed with dye-sub printing.

Hybrid ceramics have a recess molded into the center of the chip. The outer edge and the rolling edge are dye-sub printed directly onto the chip like a typical ceramic, but the recess instead has a printed adhesive label stuck onto it. This makes it a hybrid between a ceramic (direct printing) and a plastic or china clay chip (central sticker). Sun-Fly offers hybrids in their PolyInno line and many PCF members have made great designs using Sun-Fly hybrids. Tina also offers hybrids but I haven't seen anyone make a set using them so far.

The molded recess on a hybrid is necessary to use a sticker; otherwise the stickered surface wouldn't be flat and the chips wouldn't stack well. By contrast, the molded chips have their center design printed directly onto the chip, which requires the center to not be recessed or it wouldn't print cleanly. The center of a molded chip is flat, although the debossed ring around the center makes it look otherwise.

Hybrids don't have debossed impressions like cards or diamonds around the edge; they're flat other than the central recess. There's no reason they couldn't, but so far none of the manufacturers have offered a hybrid with a molded design. Some PCF members have sketched out ideas for chips like this, with an eye towards commissioning a custom mold, but those plans haven't come together yet.

Wow! thank you thank you thank you! This is so perfectly in depth and well explained I think I finally following on! This should be in one of the many start here threads to explain what the real difference is between different chips!

 

[CrazyEddie]

Wow! thank you thank you thank you! This is so perfectly in depth and well explained I think I finally following on!

I'm glad you found it helpful.

This should be in one of the many start here threads to explain what the real difference is between different chips!

It is in there, somewhere, although it might take some digging to find it... it might be linked to by something that's linked to by something that's linked in one of the starting points...

Welcome to PCF!