Here ya go. $10 Amazon dimmer. It does the job, but white turns pretty orange/red as you go low. Also, likely due to the cheap $10 product, you can hear a buzzing sound. The main issue I still see is the lack of a diffuser - don’t love the look of seeing each individual light.
Agreed! Thinking COB light strip may be the way to go but also hoping to learn from others who have taken the plunge before me
the new tables seem extremely durable this time around.... a few questions...
Did you do the measurements he mentioned or just drilled straight down? It's possible I have a monkey brain and I'm not understanding the purpose of measuring for a pilot hole. The hole saw should just fit right in?
Thanks for the response. Last time I did this, I didn't measure, I just drilled and everything went fine, so wasn't sure of the purpose of measuring... Not sure I do yet lol will probably just assume that method is the correct way and go with that.
Is this in Houston by chance?
The app shows in stock at both the Williowbrook and Woodlands locations for $169.99.
Not sure. I’m going to go check the location that @harrysallout mentioned to see if it’s at that $170 price in store. Guess you gotta go check? Not sure whether the app pricing is different from the website. I’m not a member, so not sure how they list stuff. Just gonna use a friend to get me in and check it out.
I think the website shows prices assuming it’s being shipped to you (or your local store) and are building in those costs. The items bulk shipped in quantity to the store are at a much greater discount.
That’s the first time I’ve ever heard this. They can always pull up your purchase history as soon as they scan your card, I’ve done it many times.
Yes I just bought one yesterday at the I10 and bunker hill location. Be ware that its very heavy and large.
The oak Brook IL location says they changed their policy in March of this year. Need paper or pull it up on the app yourself. They will not look it up. Likely coming to a Costco near you as they were the first in the area to have card scanners at entry also.
Ahhh…good ol’ customer service.
Interested as well
Killer detail! thanks for the step by step, will be doing this soon!I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney and @greedyintern. Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful.
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142
- Replacement cup holders
- Gloves
- Eye protection
- Auto trim removal tool
- Screwdriver
- Hole saw (3 5/8") - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
- Tape measure
- Cardboard sheet
- Hole saw arbor
- 1/4" drill bit
- 1/8" drill bit
- Screw
- Drill
- Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
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After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
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A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
- The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
- The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
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Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
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Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
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I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
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Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497
Can you remove the arm rest in that section and pull the felt tight then staple it?
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